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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 07:32 |
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41st Post |
Eric
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amazing50 wrote: I was set at 11 auto focus points locked in the center with center weighted metering of 15. Iso 200 1/350sec f/8 110mm Nikkor 24/120 f/3.5-5.6G with VR on.Have just posted this article on another thread. but it may also have a bearing on this infinity focus debate.... http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/stuff2/?p=1143
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 09:34 |
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42nd Post |
jk
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Eric, That link doesnt work for me. Please can you adjust.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 09:58 |
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43rd Post |
Robert
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I think it's here, haven't read it all yet but it's definitely hyperfocal. http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/hyperfocal_distance.html
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 10:23 |
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44th Post |
Eric
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Robert wrote:I think it's here, haven't read it all yet but it's definitely hyperfocal. Yes that's it.
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 11:55 |
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45th Post |
jk
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Thanks Eric and Robert.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 11:59 |
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46th Post |
jk
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That is a very good article and really emphasises the point that you need to focus at or around the area you want sharp and then adjust accordingly. Rather than fixing focus and assuming everything is in focus between two points. This technique is used in street photography for grab shots. They are in focus but not sharply focused!!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17th, 2013 14:55 |
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47th Post |
Eric
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jk wrote:That is a very good article and really emphasises the point that you need to focus at or around the area you want sharp and then adjust accordingly. I've been doing this unwittingly for sometime. I use to do the '1/3 in' routine but noticed the rear elements were not always perfect. I especially found this with long machinery when close up. But I guess it's more applicable to landscapes.
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 27th, 2013 17:42 |
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48th Post |
richw
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It's a bit beyond my level, I tend to do the 1/3 in and make a judgement on what aperture is necessary. One thing I have being doing more of recently with portraits of two people together is (if I can) to try and get them level to the camera. If not I have noticed that getting the eyes of the subject that is slightly forward sharp makes a better image than the rear, subconsciously when photographing two people I know I was always focusing on my favourite of the two until recently. I have also begun to wonder recently how it is that some people have faces that autofocus just snaps sharply on and others don't. My sister has a son (three) and a daughter (two), Autofocus is spot on every time with the daughter but really struggles with her son. It's not just my photos this effects, it is apparent in a lot of photos the family have taken.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28th, 2013 10:48 |
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49th Post |
Eric
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richw wrote: It's a bit beyond my level, I tend to do the 1/3 in and make a judgement on what aperture is necessary. One thing I have being doing more of recently with portraits of two people together is (if I can) to try and get them level to the camera. If not I have noticed that getting the eyes of the subject that is slightly forward sharp makes a better image than the rear, subconsciously when photographing two people I know I was always focusing on my favourite of the two until recently. His name isnt Damien is it?  First thought would be a more uniform skin complexion, but the shape of the face can influence the way ambient reflects, reducing contrast.
____________________ Eric |
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