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Moderated by: chrisbet, | Page: ![]() ![]() |
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D610   -   Page   2 | |
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Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 15:20 |
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11th Post |
Robert![]() ![]()
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Have you done a two button reset? Two buttons will have green dots next to them, hold down the two buttons for a few seconds and the screen should ask if you want to reset the camera to factory settings... It's a good starting place. There are still some settings on some cameras which persist even after a reset but the important and some obscure settings are 'zeroed'. With some bodies permanent exposure compensation of plus or minus 1/3 of a stop isn't unusual. Keep a close eye on the histogram until you get used to the camera, even then keep an eye on it, that's your best guide. Our eyes are easily misled because they compensate for bright or dull light, we sometimes don't realise how bright or dull it really is, the sensor isn't that smart!
____________________ Robert. |
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Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 07:59 |
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12th Post |
chrishamer![]()
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Robert wrote:Have you done a two button reset? Definitely agree on doing a two-button reset - also make sure it's running the latest firmware too. I'd say that my D600 tended to overexpose too, probably by around 1/3 of a stop. I pretty much always shot at -1/3 unless I was shooting manual
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Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 09:20 |
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13th Post |
chrisbet![]() ![]()
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Yes - I did the reset and also cleared out some other user set items it doesn't cover. It is on the latest firmware too. I have read that it tended to overexpose so I'll have to see what correction it needs.
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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Posted: Fri Sep 6th, 2019 13:08 |
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14th Post |
GeoffR![]()
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I almost always set -2/3 stop exposure correction (As opposed to compensation, the former doesn't show in the finder)
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Posted: Fri Sep 13th, 2019 11:24 |
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15th Post |
chrisbet![]() ![]()
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A few from today - experimenting with exposure and fill in flash to get the results I am looking for - D610 & 28-70mm f3.5-4.5![]() ![]() ![]()
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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Posted: Fri Sep 13th, 2019 13:08 |
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16th Post |
Robert![]() ![]()
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Love two, three would be nice but for the stick... The first one lacks sharpness, maybe movement, or focus? The bee and stamens should be really sharp in my opinion. Wind is usually the biggest enemy of flower photography. It can be dead calm, by the time I have set up my tripod and focused on the flower a breeze suddenly develops, it come from nowhere, the moment I reach for the shutter release!
____________________ Robert. |
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Posted: Fri Sep 13th, 2019 14:45 |
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17th Post |
chrisbet![]() ![]()
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Possibly some movement in 1 - I was after the hover fly and it kept moving! Sorry about the stick in 3 - I'll chop it off next time ![]() I am pleased with 2, I stopped the lens down to get DOF and used flash to get the exposure - the shadows really throw the flowers into 3D ![]()
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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Posted: Tue Jan 11th, 2022 11:00 |
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18th Post |
chrisbet![]() ![]()
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Technical question - the menu of the D610 offers the choice of 11 or 39 focus points - in what circumstances would I want to use each of these settings?
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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Posted: Tue Jan 11th, 2022 21:43 |
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19th Post |
Eric![]() ![]()
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chrisbet wrote:Technical question - the menu of the D610 offers the choice of 11 or 39 focus points - in what circumstances would I want to use each of these settings? I’ve always assumed the more focus points the greater the risk the camera will choose to lock onto something other than the point you want (eg the background or close by detail). However in situations where the subject is moving about (eg birds in flight, sports) having more focus points increases your chance of keeping the focus locked on.
____________________ Eric |
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Posted: Wed Jan 12th, 2022 09:38 |
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20th Post |
blackfox![]() ![]()
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got to agree with you re-more focus points allowing for error Eric , there are many multi point modes on my current olympus body but I tend to find for a cluttered background just using either of the two single points is best (two sizes of points ) for birds in flight I tend to use cluster focus (all points) if the sky /background is clear .im pretty sure from memory that this will apply to the nikon A/F system to
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