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Upgrading firmware on D600   -   Page   4
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Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 08:01
 
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Bob



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jk wrote:
Bob, what computer OS are you using Windows, Mac or Linux.
Are you happy with results from GIMP?  There are some very fine softwares around that are free and possibly a lot more intuitive than GIMP.  Understand that this may be a change.:doh:

I have Win11 latest version. regarding GIMP, it's seriously technical software which I use for opening photographs. I haven't used it for image enhancement yet. Last night I downloaded NX studio - I couldn't contact my lawyer regarding all the conditions, but Nikon now has my inside leg measurement:-). It'll take me a while to get up to speed( he said confidently). When I looked on the Apps list in Windows settings, I found something called Transfer 2 as well as the NX studio program. I removed it. I didn't realise NX studio uses Transfer 2 to upload files directly from the camera until I had opened NX and had a look around:doh:.

 




Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 08:19
 
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Bob



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Eric wrote:
Bob
A couple of things after our PM chat regarding the squirrel image.
It’s not as sharp as it could be. Was it taken through window glass and if so were you perpendicular to the glass ? Even a slight angle through window glass can lose a lot of definition.

I notice you had f16 on the lens. Whilst recognising close objects sometimes require smaller apertures to get everything in focus, I was not a fan of going beyond f11 with my Sigma lens. Even with recalibration it went soft after f11. 
I would try some tests at f5.6/f8 of static subjects to see if sharpness improves.

I couldnt see what ISO you used. Keeping ISO as low as lighting and subject allow again helps with definition.



With regard to dust. I’ve never been troubled by a bit of dust in a lens. But dust on the sensor can show up as spots on an image at small apertures. The best way to check for sensor dust is to take a photo of a plain* white or light wall at f16 or f22. You will see dust bunnies when you review the image if the sensor needs cleaning.

* I once started to clean my sensor on seeing a couple of “dots” on my screen before realising the wife had previously stuck a poster on the wall with drawing pins.

 I have developed a habit of trying to remove natural marks…just spent a day pressure washing the front of the house including a few wasted minutes trying to remove……….shadows of the telephone line :needsahug:



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 Regarding the squirrel, not taken through glass - I'll run some test shots using each aperture. Regarding ISO numbers, as you know, with film the lowest number gives the finest grain and the sharpest image. How does grain size translate to digital photography?

Image reference  Dust off - how does that work?

I see you have the curse of the photographer's eye - no minute speck is left unseen:lol:

 




Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 10:20
 
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Eric



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Bob wrote:
 Regarding the squirrel, not taken through glass - I'll run some test shots using each aperture. Regarding ISO numbers, as you know, with film the lowest number gives the finest grain and the sharpest image. How does grain size translate to digital photography?

Image reference  Dust off - how does that work?

I see you have the curse of the photographer's eye - no minute speck is left unseen:lol:

Believe me I turn a blind eye often on my own stuff these days, but in trying to answer an image quality question I revert to type. Lol

Ok so not through glass but the overall image is slightly soft. That doesn’t mean to say it’s not retrievable with post processing software …just not optimum when captured. 

It doesn’t look like movement blur (to me) so your shutter speed would have been faster than say 1/250th at focal length of 200mm? ( inverse rule). Had just the squirrel been soft compared to the rest of the scene I would have said use 1/500th or more.

As I mentioned the f16 aperture MAY have introduced some softness. Checking a range of apertures under different lighting with the camera on a tripod (or at least not handheld) may well establish your lenses sweet spot range for future reference…hopefully not showing any flaws.

ASA = ISO and GRAIN = NOISE to all practicalities….although they are differently spawned beasts.
Yes, lower ASA/ISO ..should mean sharper images BUT not if the light level means widest apertures and/or too slow a shutter speed have to be used to achieve the right exposure. The wrong choice of settings could easily take the edge off the low ISO quality gain.

Also noise generated under incandescent lighting is more noticeable than under daylight. (Imho)

Establishing how low and high you want to go with your cameras ISO performance in combination with the lens fstop sweet spot range, will establish your equipments acceptable quality envelope.

One of the advantages of digital ISO over film ASA is you don’t have to change film. In fact many people set the ISO to Auto (with your own personal upper limit) and let that “float” to fit your chosen aperture and shutter speed settings.


Hope that makes sense?



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Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 16:46
 
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Bob



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Eric wrote:
Believe me I turn a blind eye often on my own stuff these days, but in trying to answer an image quality question I revert to type. Lol

Ok so not through glass but the overall image is slightly soft. That doesn’t mean to say it’s not retrievable with post processing software …just not optimum when captured. 

It doesn’t look like movement blur (to me) so your shutter speed would have been faster than say 1/250th at focal length of 200mm? ( inverse rule). Had just the squirrel been soft compared to the rest of the scene I would have said use 1/500th or more.

As I mentioned the f16 aperture MAY have introduced some softness. Checking a range of apertures under different lighting with the camera on a tripod (or at least not handheld) may well establish your lenses sweet spot range for future reference…hopefully not showing any flaws.

ASA = ISO and GRAIN = NOISE to all practicalities….although they are differently spawned beasts.
Yes, lower ASA/ISO ..should mean sharper images BUT not if the light level means widest apertures and/or too slow a shutter speed have to be used to achieve the right exposure. The wrong choice of settings could easily take the edge off the low ISO quality gain.

Also noise generated under incandescent lighting is more noticeable than under daylight. (Imho)

Establishing how low and high you want to go with your cameras ISO performance in combination with the lens fstop sweet spot range, will establish your equipments acceptable quality envelope.

One of the advantages of digital ISO over film ASA is you don’t have to change film. In fact many people set the ISO to Auto (with your own personal upper limit) and let that “float” to fit your chosen aperture and shutter speed settings.


Hope that makes sense?

Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise  to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments .

 




Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 17:59
 
35th Post
jk



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Bob wrote:
Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise  to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments .
I think you can get a diopter eyepiece that will allow you to bring the eyepiece adjuster so you are not full cranked to one end or other of the scale.
Nikon do not make one but there are third party items.



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Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2025 19:13
 
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Eric



Joined: Wed Apr 18th, 2012
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Bob wrote:
Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise  to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments .
A couple of years ago I was on a campsite and a guy on his own arrived next door. He had difficulty moving the caravan onto the pitch so I gave him a lift and shove. Inevitably we stuck up a conversation and a barn owl started to fly round the field behind our caravans. 

While I cursed not bringing my 600mm lens on holiday with me, he grabbed a Nikon with 400mm zoom lens and started getting some shots. I noticed that if the bird perched obligingly on a post he kept correcting the focus manually saying the AF on the camera wasn’t working properly. 

I looked at the camera and asked if he had adjusted the diopter to his eye sight “the what?” he asked. 

He had been given the equipment by his son who had bought it on eBay and couldn’t get on with it ….neither of them had set the viewfinder up properly and it way waaaay out for my and obviously their eyesight.

After sorting that out he was happily clicking the barn owl which came every night. Sadly my attempts with a mere 80mm lens needed loads of cropping ….and were somewhat lack lustre compared to his results.

He worked for a bulb company in Norfolk not far from where we live by strange coincidence and was so pleased I had sorted that problem out he posted us a load of super big daff and tulip bulbs that were a brilliant show. 

Now looking for a car dealer that is having trouble with his camera……you can but hope. :lol:





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