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| Moderated by: chrisbet, | ||
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Bob
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I have recently bought a D600. It didn't cost a fortune, and when it arrived it looked in pretty good condition. I had quizzed the seller about the dust etc before I bought it,and he maintained he had never experienced any problems. Apart from the Nikon, and my wife's Olympus C310, I have only had Canon, and apart from the Powershot 170, never had a digital.The rest have been AE1 Programs and a T90. I used to do my own developing and printing, but those days have long gone. Anyhow, having just about plumbed the depths of the Menu, I found the Firmware section. Against the C which I believe stands for current, the version is 1.00. Against the L it's 1.006. I looked on the Nikon website, and found the firmware versions for the D600. See below: • This service supplies software that can be used to update the D600 camera “C” firmware to version 1.04. Before proceeding, select Firmware version in the camera SETUP MENU and check the camera firmware version. You will not need to download or install this update if the firmware listed above is already installed. • This update includes all changes made in previous updates. • Read the information below before proceeding. Changes from “C” Firmware Version 1.03 to 1.04 • The SETUP MENU > Time zone and date > Time zone display now shows only the names of major cities in the currently selected zone. • Fixed an issue that resulted in over-application of distortion control in pictures taken with an AF-P DX NIKKOR 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6G VR lens at a focal length of 10 mm and with FX (36x24) 1.0x selected for Image area > Choose image area, Off selected for Image area > Auto DX crop, and On selected for Auto distortion control in the SHOOTING MENU. Changes from Previous Versions Changes from “C” Firmware Version 1.02 to 1.03 • Added support for the following features of AF-P lenses: - If the standby timer expires after the camera has focused, the focus position will not change when the timer is reactivated. - In manual focus mode, the focus indicator in the viewfinder (or in live view, the focus point selected in the monitor) will flash to show that infinity or the minimum focus distance has been reached by rotating the focus ring. • Added support for AF-P DX lenses. • Fixed the following issues: - Optimal exposure would sometimes not be achieved in photos taken in live view using a lens with electromagnetically controlled aperture (type E lenses). - When used to take pictures after an option was selected for Custom Setting d10 (Exposure delay mode) in the CUSTOM SETTING MENU, Camera Control Pro 2 would sometimes display the error “The camera was not able to take a picture” despite having actually taken the picture. Changes from “C” Firmware Version 1.01 to 1.02 • Added support for auto distortion control data version L:2.000. Update the camera firmware before updating the auto distortion control data to version L:2.000 or later. I have downloaded the instructions,and Version 1.04. re the AutoDistortion control, this is greyed out in my menu - "this option is not available at current settings or in camera's current state" I took the SD card out and looked at the contents, and there is a greyed folder called .fseventsd (which I suspect contains the firmware), a DCIM and a NIKON001.DSC. I assume these are all in the root directory of the SD card The serial number of the camera is 6032451. Is there anything I should be made aware of before I take the plunge? |
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chrisbet
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Hi, I have a 610 - the C version is the camera firmware, the L version is the lens distortion control firmware - I think you need to download both from the Nikon site. My camera has C 1.04 and L 1.009 installed I am no expert and you might want to wait a while for one of the others to reply! |
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jk
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Firmware is usually a *.bin file and needs to be put onto the SD card in the root directory. Occasionally there are two firmware bin files. I dont have my D600 any more so just get the latest firmware version from the Nikon website. The latest version of the firmware is all you need as it contains all the updates necessary. Lens firmware updates are done in the same way as camera firmware updates and the camera menu system will provide instructions and details. |
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Bob
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Thank you gentlemen. I have completed the camera firmware update successfully. I can't find the lens file though -any suggestions as to where to look? or have you a link to it? |
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chrisbet
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Here - https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/348.html |
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Bob
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Thanks Chris. I'll contact Sigma to find out how their lenses react to this firmware. |
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jk
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Bob wrote:Thank you gentlemen. Lens firmware updates are infrequent and apply only to a particular lens model. They usually update AF and advanced functionality for the expensive telephotos. |
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Eric
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Bob wrote:Thanks Chris. I’ve rarely found any benefit in updating lens firmware ….unless it was for an obvious manufacturing ‘fault/bug’ discovered post release. However… With long telephoto Sigma lens it was (is?) a common practise to send NEW lenses back to Sigma UK for recalibration. Apparently the lenses ex factory were set to an average calibration. Having your lens adjusted to IT’S optimum settings could make a significant improvement. It did with my 500mm back in the day….but that was the only Sigma lens I ever owned. |
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Bob
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Eric wrote:I’ve rarely found any benefit in updating lens firmware ….unless it was for an obvious manufacturing ‘fault/bug’ discovered post release. I have been trying to avoid this, but it may come to it. It's only a 70-200 APO F2.8 DG EX OS HSM -not necessarily in that order, but I have found the auto focussing strangely variable. The lens seems to work better in the PSAM modes, and manual focussing helps. I have to use my left eye these days! |
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Eric
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Bob wrote:I have been trying to avoid this, but it may come to it. It's only a 70-200 APO F2.8 DG EX OS HSM -not necessarily in that order, but I have found the auto focussing strangely variable. The lens seems to work better in the PSAM modes, and manual focussing helps. I have to use my left eye these days! Not sure why auto focusing as such should be variable. With some zoom lenses they are (again) set up to an average set point across the zoom range. It’s why I avoided big zoom ranges because if the tele end was sharp, the wide end was often soft (or vice versa). A 3x zoom though didn’t suffer much variance….so shouldn’t be an issue in your case. Is the variability influenced by the fstop being used? I thought (maybe wrong) the Auto distort firmware was only relevant to Nikon lenses…..perhaps why it was greyed out? |
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chrisbet
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I had a Nikon AF Sigma 70-200mm D f3.5 APO HSM EX and Sigma updated its software which improved its performance dramatically - it cost very litle as well to have that done. |
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Eric
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chrisbet wrote:I had a Nikon AF Sigma 70-200mm D f3.5 APO HSM EX and Sigma updated its software which improved its performance dramatically - it cost very litle as well to have that done. Was it not possible to do this yourself? Or does lens have to be attached to a Sigma? camera, like Nikon? |
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Bob
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I am currently awaiting a response from Sigma on their lens firmware in a Nikon camera |
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Bob
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Here's what the Sigma rep told me:- The firmware for the Nikon D600 that related to distortion control will only be relevant to Nikkor lens and not Sigma brand lenses, this is why that section of the camera menu will be greyed out. We do have some firmware updates for the Sigma 70-200mm APO DG OS lens but this is related to an AF selection issue when Nikon changed the firmware in their cameras circa 2013. So, if the AF is working and the AF and MF setting on the camera’s lcd screen does not flicker between the two then it should not need an update.’’ I shall have to be patient. |
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jk
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If you want faster or more accurate AF you need to move to D850 or D810 or even the D3/D4/D5/D6 for full frame cameras. The D500 has fast AF but it is APS-C. Once you move to the Z series cameras the AF accuracy improves with the Z6iii, Z8 and Z9 being as the best. |
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jk
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Eric wrote:Was it not possible to do this yourself? Or does lens have to be attached to a Sigma? camera, like Nikon? I believe only the most recent F mount lenses from Sigma which have a dock allow you to update firmware as an end user. All other have to go back to Sigma UK to be updated. |
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Eric
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Bob wrote:Here's what the Sigma rep told me:- Pretty much what I expected. Have you been using it for motorsport? Have you been dissatisfied with its performance? Would like to see some images you've taken with the combo, if you are so inclined. |
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Bob
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Eric wrote:Pretty much what I expected. here's one I took today. I had it on full zoom ie 200mm, the lens on manual, no OS, the camera on manual, with Aperture priority auto. er...... I keep getting a corrupted image message - I've tried using blue cross but I only get a fraction of the .jpg which is 2.8MB Any suggestions?  Click here to comment on this image.  Click here to comment on this image. |
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Bob
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Eric wrote:Pretty much what I expected. This is the photo - I had used GIMP on the rejected pictures, but I used Photos or some thing Windows offered. Anyway it has worked.  Click here to comment on this image. |
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chrisbet
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Re uploads - mystery! The files had uploaded correctly onto the server and they pasted into your post using + with no problem for me.... |
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jk
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If the image wont show on the back of camera then it sounds like you need to format the SD card in camera, not computer, and try again. If the corrupt image situation persists then you need to try a new card. If it happens with a new card then you may have a problem with the camera electronics so it will need a visit to Nikon. |
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Bob
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jk wrote:If the image wont show on the back of camera then it sounds like you need to format the SD card in camera, not computer, and try again. The images show up perfectly on the camera - it was the forum which gives out the corrupted image message. When I used a graphics package other than GIMP it worked especially with the Blue Cross option. |
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jk
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OK. I thought that you were having problems with the camera. |
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Eric
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Bob … I’ve sent you a PM. But in case you missed it….You might like to remove one of the images posted of the package. They show your address details….. to the whole world.  |
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chrisbet
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Bob / Eric, I have marked them as private images so they don't show as recent on the left of the home screen, nor in the slideshow on the splash page. They are still in Bob's gallery. |
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Eric
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chrisbet wrote:Bob / Eric, I have marked them as private images so they don't show as recent on the left of the home screen, nor in the slideshow on the splash page. They are still in Bob's gallery. I wondered if there would be an easier solution. That’s why they pay you half a crown more than me.  |
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Bob
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Hi Chrisbet Thanks for doing that. Where is my gallery - ah I've just found it.....it's under the G  |
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Bob
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No problemo |
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jk
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Bob, what computer OS are you using Windows, Mac or Linux. Are you happy with results from GIMP? There are some very fine softwares around that are free and possibly a lot more intuitive than GIMP. Understand that this may be a change.  |
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Eric
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Bob A couple of things after our PM chat regarding the squirrel image. It’s not as sharp as it could be. Was it taken through window glass and if so were you perpendicular to the glass ? Even a slight angle through window glass can lose a lot of definition. I notice you had f16 on the lens. Whilst recognising close objects sometimes require smaller apertures to get everything in focus, I was not a fan of going beyond f11 with my Sigma lens. Even with recalibration it went soft after f11. I would try some tests at f5.6/f8 of static subjects to see if sharpness improves. I couldnt see what ISO you used. Keeping ISO as low as lighting and subject allow again helps with definition. With regard to dust. I’ve never been troubled by a bit of dust in a lens. But dust on the sensor can show up as spots on an image at small apertures. The best way to check for sensor dust is to take a photo of a plain* white or light wall at f16 or f22. You will see dust bunnies when you review the image if the sensor needs cleaning. * I once started to clean my sensor on seeing a couple of “dots” on my screen before realising the wife had previously stuck a poster on the wall with drawing pins. I have developed a habit of trying to remove natural marks…just spent a day pressure washing the front of the house including a few wasted minutes trying to remove……….shadows of the telephone line   Click here to comment on this image. |
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Bob
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jk wrote:Bob, what computer OS are you using Windows, Mac or Linux. I have Win11 latest version. regarding GIMP, it's seriously technical software which I use for opening photographs. I haven't used it for image enhancement yet. Last night I downloaded NX studio - I couldn't contact my lawyer regarding all the conditions, but Nikon now has my inside leg measurement  . It'll take me a while to get up to speed( he said confidently). When I looked on the Apps list in Windows settings, I found something called Transfer 2 as well as the NX studio program. I removed it. I didn't realise NX studio uses Transfer 2 to upload files directly from the camera until I had opened NX and had a look around. |
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Bob
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Eric wrote:Bob Regarding the squirrel, not taken through glass - I'll run some test shots using each aperture. Regarding ISO numbers, as you know, with film the lowest number gives the finest grain and the sharpest image. How does grain size translate to digital photography? Image reference Dust off - how does that work? I see you have the curse of the photographer's eye - no minute speck is left unseen  |
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Eric
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Bob wrote:Regarding the squirrel, not taken through glass - I'll run some test shots using each aperture. Regarding ISO numbers, as you know, with film the lowest number gives the finest grain and the sharpest image. How does grain size translate to digital photography? Believe me I turn a blind eye often on my own stuff these days, but in trying to answer an image quality question I revert to type. Lol Ok so not through glass but the overall image is slightly soft. That doesn’t mean to say it’s not retrievable with post processing software …just not optimum when captured. It doesn’t look like movement blur (to me) so your shutter speed would have been faster than say 1/250th at focal length of 200mm? ( inverse rule). Had just the squirrel been soft compared to the rest of the scene I would have said use 1/500th or more. As I mentioned the f16 aperture MAY have introduced some softness. Checking a range of apertures under different lighting with the camera on a tripod (or at least not handheld) may well establish your lenses sweet spot range for future reference…hopefully not showing any flaws. ASA = ISO and GRAIN = NOISE to all practicalities….although they are differently spawned beasts. Yes, lower ASA/ISO ..should mean sharper images BUT not if the light level means widest apertures and/or too slow a shutter speed have to be used to achieve the right exposure. The wrong choice of settings could easily take the edge off the low ISO quality gain. Also noise generated under incandescent lighting is more noticeable than under daylight. (Imho) Establishing how low and high you want to go with your cameras ISO performance in combination with the lens fstop sweet spot range, will establish your equipments acceptable quality envelope. One of the advantages of digital ISO over film ASA is you don’t have to change film. In fact many people set the ISO to Auto (with your own personal upper limit) and let that “float” to fit your chosen aperture and shutter speed settings. Hope that makes sense? |
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Bob
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Eric wrote:Believe me I turn a blind eye often on my own stuff these days, but in trying to answer an image quality question I revert to type. Lol Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments . |
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jk
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Bob wrote:Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments . I think you can get a diopter eyepiece that will allow you to bring the eyepiece adjuster so you are not full cranked to one end or other of the scale. Nikon do not make one but there are third party items. |
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Eric
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Bob wrote:Absolutely. The other problem I have is dealing with the eyesight ( Now he tells me I hear you saying) I have the dioptre adjuster cranked fully clockwise to get the focus frame in focus, ie fully black, but it isn't quite enough for my liking. I am going to address this right away. Meanwhile, many thanks for your very constructive comments . A couple of years ago I was on a campsite and a guy on his own arrived next door. He had difficulty moving the caravan onto the pitch so I gave him a lift and shove. Inevitably we stuck up a conversation and a barn owl started to fly round the field behind our caravans. While I cursed not bringing my 600mm lens on holiday with me, he grabbed a Nikon with 400mm zoom lens and started getting some shots. I noticed that if the bird perched obligingly on a post he kept correcting the focus manually saying the AF on the camera wasn’t working properly. I looked at the camera and asked if he had adjusted the diopter to his eye sight “the what?” he asked. He had been given the equipment by his son who had bought it on eBay and couldn’t get on with it ….neither of them had set the viewfinder up properly and it way waaaay out for my and obviously their eyesight. After sorting that out he was happily clicking the barn owl which came every night. Sadly my attempts with a mere 80mm lens needed loads of cropping ….and were somewhat lack lustre compared to his results. He worked for a bulb company in Norfolk not far from where we live by strange coincidence and was so pleased I had sorted that problem out he posted us a load of super big daff and tulip bulbs that were a brilliant show. Now looking for a car dealer that is having trouble with his camera……you can but hope.  Click here to comment on this image.  Click here to comment on this image.  Click here to comment on this image. |
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| A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondslr.uk Thank you. |