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MaxSouthOz
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How does the Canon EOS 400D compare to the D 7000 for quality. I'm still very unhappy with the quality of the images I'm getting. My mate's EOS 400D kills it. We take the same shot F11 1 second ISO 100 and his is crisp - even after resizing, where mine is soft. Maybe I need a better camera. |
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jk
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I dont think that the problem is the model or make of camera as they are equally good. This sounds like an issue with focusing. Maybe you need to get someone else to check it in a camera shop. Have your tried setting the camera up on a tripod and shooting a newspaper at about 2-3metres distance. Camera ideally should be 1/500, f5.6 or f8 and ISO 200 or 400 and use a lenses such as 50mm or a medium zoom 35-105mm. Use both manual focus and AF. Then examine the results. This could be a camera that is not focusing correctly or it could be a poor lens. |
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jk
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Max, It might be useful to post a link to a full sized JPG image. If you create a Dropbox account you can put it there and then post a link here. As long as you share the folder then people can download it and examine. You need to make sure that the image EXIF is visible or to put the data here in a post. The Canon v. Nikon is not really a question of better kit but about you and the equipment not working well together. Either a damaged camera/lens or a user error  |
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MaxSouthOz
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OK Thanks, Jonathon. |
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blackfox
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got to agree with j.k on this ,you should be wiping him out resolution wise ,the 400d is way back down canons quality list . its either a focus problem with your lens . a faulty or damaged lens . initial set up in your camera not right ,unlikely but as the d7000 is fairly complicated it could be . i notice that you don't state which lens your friend or yourself uses either .blaming the problems on the camera body .to give a proper helpful answer all the parts of the equation are needed are you both shooting raw or j/peg etc ,having used and owned both cameras i should be able to give a unbiased opion on it |
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Eric
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Is this not just a case of more pixels mean more precise technique? |
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blackfox
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Eric wrote:Is this not just a case of more pixels mean more precise technique? no eric ,its a**e about tit the nikon d7000 is 16mp and the canon 400d is 10.1 mp with a very old slow sensor ..the 400d is one of the first canons i ever had and it was appalling ,hence the o.p's post does not make sense unless theres something wrong with the nikon body/lens/or set up |
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, guys. My lens is an AF-5 NIKKOR18-105mm 1:3.5-5.6 G ED which came with the camera. I attached it when the camera came out of the box and it's never been off. My wife has a D 90 with the same lens, so I can take photos with both for comparison. The guy with the Canon is a member of my forum, so I'll PM him and ask about his lens. I'll also attach his image. It's not very big so it should be OK as an attachment. Attachment: erm2.jpg (Downloaded 16 times) |
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MaxSouthOz
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Now I'll find one of mine. I'm working on the drop box, but this will give you an idea. Admittedly it's washed out. It's a Helicon Focus stacked image. I was trying to show my forum members how the Helicon works. But you can see the clack of clarity along the track work for example. Attachment: zzz resized.jpg (Downloaded 15 times) |
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amazing50
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You can't realistically compare these 2 cameras without having them side by side and all settings and lenses as close as possible to each other. Also using a stacked image is not helping as the rails might be sharper on one of the images than in the final. Stackers don't improve images, they just take the calculated best bits from a series of images and stick them together in a composite image. To test your camera and lens, adjust the viewfinder focus, make sure it is not set in a scene mode, the ISO is set to 100 with sharpening low and JPG to highest quality with RAW also saved. The white balance on auto or set on site. Select a scene outdoors on a nice bright day and avoid back lighting. Try to have lots of detail out past 100m such as street signs, electric wiring etc. With your camera on a solid tripod, shoot the same scene at various focal lengths and f settings, using a shutter release or the self timer @ 10 sec. with the mirror locked up or in live view. Manual focus with the live view focus magnifier, if you have it, and compare it to auto focus. Keep your shutter speeds as high as possible and don't use Vibration Reduction. Don't think your lens has VR. Make notes for each frame# and don't discard any. Evaluate them on your computer monitor and at 100% crop if possible. Faststone Image Viewer5(free)will do this if the magnifier is set to 3x. This is a bit of work but will let you know of what your camera is capable. Full frame you should be able to get quality B3 13x19 prints and larger, if you stand back a bit:~). We got into this last October on the forum http://www.nikondslr.uk/view_topic.php?id=722&forum_id=3 http://www.nikondslr.uk/view_topic.php?id=721&forum_id=14&page=1 |
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, Michael. It looks like I've got some reading to do. :thumbsup: |
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jk
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Yes I forgot to mention to switch OFF the VR especially when the camera is on a tripod. I think that Nikon really need to educate people about the use of VR. it really should only be used for low shutter speed shooting when the camera is hand held. |
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MaxSouthOz
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Thanks, jk. It's always off. I almost never use the camera outside the studio. It's always on a tripod with the VR off and using the IR release. |
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blackfox
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the only logical think i can think of is maybe you have got the model of his canon mixed up a bit ,??? or possibly if he is shooting with a top quality L lens that would take him past you i/q wise .without knowing BOTH cameras and lens used its impossible to answer helpfully ,the other spanner in the works might be that he knows how to process better than you. |
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