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| Moderated by: chrisbet, | ||
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Robert
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Or is it the lens, could it be a setting in the camera? Camera: Nikon D3, no outlandish settings in camera, so far as I know... Set to Auto ISO and in Aperture priority mode. Weather was fine with bright (for UK) sunshine. Lens: Nikkor 24-120 f4 ED VR. All images are unprocessed NEF's. I spent yesterday at a car hillclimb at Harewood in Yorkshire with Christopher. This afternoon while processing the images in Lightroom I was astounded to seem some radically colourised images. I had been using the Nikkor 300 f2.8 and the Nikkor 80-200 on my D3, all was normal until I got to one batch which had been taken with the Nikkor 24-120 f4. I have set the D3 to auto ISO and it has been pretty well set at that since I first used it. However It rarely seems to move from ISO 800, I would have expected it to drop much lower in bright conditions. It's set to to max out at ISO1600, minimum shutter speed 1/60 Sec. These images are grossly over saturated with blacked out shadows, massive contrast and total lack of shadow detail. I haven't attempted to process this images until I have some understanding what's going on. Any ideas please.  |
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Robert
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This is what the same car should look like: Taken with the D3 same settings, Lens Nikkor 80-200 f2.8 Trombone type. Unprocessed image.  |
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Eric
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Hi Robert Surely it's just underexposed? If the shot of the car on track is correct .....1/1250 @f10, then the same subject in the same lighting at f9 should only be 1/3 stop faster shutter speed to get the same exposure. The shot is 1/3200 at f9 when for same exposure it should have been 1/1600 @f9. So it's a stop underexposed for whatever reason. Has the D3 been set to 'select' 1/3 stops? Personally I have never trusted auto ISO in any program mode...only manual. |
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Robert
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Thanks for that Eric, yes I usually have cameras set for 1/3 stop increments. I can see that two sets of variables, shutter speed AND auto ISO may have confused the system. On the images with sky I should have expected some exposure error for the non sky parts of the image but those without sky have me stumped. I will stop using auto ISO with aperture priority and see if it fixes the problem. May switch to Manual with auto ISO? I like to control my DoF. It's the garish saturation which hit me first, I had been using the 80-200 with no issues but as soon as I switched to the 24-120 all the car exposures are affected, it's only the image of the field which is OK. I wonder if the strong reflections from the sunlight fooled the exposure control and caused it to under expose. I tried to position the camera so that I avoided the worst reflections of the sun but it was pretty strong. I was a bit annoyed that having taken my time with the paddock shots they appear to be a disaster. Will have to see what I can recover... |
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jk
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I agree with Eric. I only used Auto-ISO in Manual exposure. You have got D-Lighting enabled? I find that gives horrible results. |
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Robert
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'D' lighting not enabled.  Will go and do some processing, see if I can recover something from this mess!  Thanks for the comments. |
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Robert
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Ok panic over! Lightroom (ACR) has fixed the problem. I have got all the images back with acceptable tones. Thanks to the 'Auto' function which I haven't spotted before, it was a single click with minor tweaks to adjust to my taste. This is the before processing state:  The camera settings:  And after 'Auto' exposure adjustment:  That's pretty good, to my eye anyway. I need to stop using two exposure variables, but I still wonder why it only affected the exposures made with the 24-120 lens all the other exposures made with the 300- f2.8 and 80-200 f2.8 were pretty near perfect straight off the card, just needed to tweak the black and white points and maybe the highlight/shadows a tad. At least they could be salvaged. |
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Eric
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The other point is that on the image examples you gave there is the obvious difference of 31mm plays 200mm. The mere fact you are using a wide angle lens may well influence how the camera meters to some degree. Never the less, the D3 is such a capable camera, I do feel the exposure difference is more likely to be a function of the different lenses. Which is right, is another question. |
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Iain
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Robert, Check your settings for max and min auto ISO as this my be why it never goes below 800. |
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novicius
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That is what active-D lighting should take care of, it does both in my D3S /X which I most often have on Auto Actice.D , `tho they tend to over expose 1/3 to 1/2 stop... |
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