 |
| |
| This site requires new users to accept that a small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondslr.uk after requesting a new account. Thank you. |
| Moderated by: chrisbet, | ||
| Author | Post | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Robert
|
As my night time photography evolves, I want to try to capture the transition from night to day as a time-lapse video. Time-lapse video is fairly straightforward simply calling for lots of images to stack together but to successfully make a nice time-lapse which covers the extremes of exposure from true dark night to full daylight isn't that easy because simply putting the camera on fully auto will give unpredictable and unacceptable results. The changes from dark night sky to full daylight need a more subtle approach. I have discovered software which can control the cameras exposure from the computer. You can set the parameters and the computer (or tablet or 'phone) calculated the exposure adjustments needed to maintain a smooth transition from dark to light over a large dynamic range of exposures. The computer sets the aperture, shutter and ISO according to your instructions. The software is part of LRTimelapse. http://lrtimelapse.com Which as the name suggests, works with Adobe Lightroom to create time-lapse video, right through to the final rendering. I am hoping to try it out tomorrow with the intention of using it early on Tuesday morning when I think the tides, the Moon and the weather will all combine to provide a working stage for me to capture the dawn. I would like to create a motorised head to mount the camera on so I could slowly pan the camera as dawn approaches but first things first... I need to get the exposure technique right first. |
|||||||||
Robert
|
I have stumbled upon the tethering software to enable remote connection to a computer or tablet, there are some limitations with USB connections to iOS devices but wi-fi connections should work. With this software most Nikon cameras, Canon and possibly Sony cameras can be comprehensively controlled via a laptop, tablet or smartphone. Including (I think)intervalometer and LiveView, depending on the cameras configuration and feature set. This is free/donation software. I have yet to actually use it but it looks promising. http://dslrdashboard.info/introduction/ The documentation seems comprehensive, it's in MS Word format, at least that's whats running it atm. |
|||||||||
jk
|
I have that qDSLRDashboard software installed on my iPad. It is very comprehensive it is like having Capture Pro but you also need the hardware which costs £45 for it to work and give you wireless LiveView. I havent had opportunity to really try it out. |
|||||||||
Robert
|
I have just installed it on the MBP, as you say it's pretty comprehensive, I am expecting to receive the (JPEG) images into the camera via a USB link. For what I need Live View won't be much, if any help. Once you get into long exposures Live View ceases to be meaningful. The reason I need the dashboard is so I can make adjustments to the exposure parameters during a long capture sequence of several hours from fully dark to full daylight, which I understand is beyond the range of the normal auto exposure. I may not be ready to use it tonight, I think I will need to get some practice both with the software and how it interacts with the camera. |
|||||||||
jk
|
I will be interested to see your time lapse image set. What interval between frames are you going for? |
|||||||||
Robert
|
Depends what my maximum dark exposure time is. I would like to aim for 20 second interval, at f4 and ISO 6,400 I Might get there if I push the NEF's in PP... It would probably mean a 16 second maximum exposure, plus recovery time? An added complication being I would like to turn the camera about 70º from North to West as dawn breaks. I am trying to think of a way to do that, very slowly and not while exposures are being made. I have ideas, but not the experience, YET!!! I am thinking Land Rover steering box, with a Q mount welded to the drop arm shaft. Calibrate the steering wheel and turn it manually say an inch or two per exposure? Whatever works. These fancy computer controlled racks and heads are all very clever but for occasional use something simple and manual would get the job done. Main thing is it has to be solid and steady, else the resulting video could induce seasickness with the viewer!!!  |
|||||||||
jk
|
Do you have a Manfrotto tripod with a horizontal panorama rotation ? Remove the locking screw and replace with a rod that acts as a lever arm that rotates the head using an elecric motor that is pushing the rod via a gearbox ? |
|||||||||
Robert
|
I have my Kennet Benbo, that has a straight rotatable column... Mmmm you got me thinking! Would be a whole lot lighter than a Land Rover steering column and gubbins.  |
|||||||||
Current theme is Blue
| A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondsl.uk Thank you. |