| Moderated by: chrisbet, | Page: 1 2 3 4 5   |
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| Ten Pin Type Remote for Long Exposure and Timelapse - Page 1 | |
| Need 100 metres minimum, real life | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 03:46 |
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1st Post |
Robert
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I am frequently having problems with the inability to operate the D800 or D3 from a significant distance. I am wanting to make some long exposures of Oakdale in the region of 45 minutes to an hour to get star trails and to expose the boat in the dim available light. I am moving away from the idea of making multiple short (30 second) exposures for an hour or more, then combining them with software like StarstaX because of all the work of handling so many exposures and then the process of combining them and patching up the gaps etc. I am leaning towards one long exposure, which the D800 now affords me. I realise there are some issues with hot pixels and some noise but on balance I think I prefer the single long exposure. The problem that brings is that I don't want to stand next to the camera for 45 minutes to an hour, I want to retire to a safe distance so I can enjoy a coffee or mug of soup in the comparative warmth of the car. It gets pretty cold sitting or standing out in the open next to the camera, especially on a freezing, windy night. Frankly the experience puts me off. With multiple short exposures I can discard the first two or three exposures and the last three as I depart from the camera and return in the darkness wearing my red head torch but with a single long exposure any light contamination, even from a dim red headtorch, at the start and end of the exposure ruins the entire exposure. I have no choice but to use a torch, especially on the shore because there are numerous small channels, potentially with quicksand, which I can fall into at night on my own. If I could start and end the exposure from a safe distance, either with a hard wire remote or better, a proper radio remote control on the 2.4Ghz band with at least 80 to 100 Metres reliable range, ideally up to a mile because some places I go I can't maintain line of sight on the camera from my refuge, so I need a margin of safety. As one might expect I have been exploring eBay for a possible candidate but the real choice seems limited, Link to Remote . There are several, basically the same which seem to emulate the Nikon MC36 functions but with radio. They seem to be too cheap, (you can't spend a little and expect a lot) I had a basic radio remote which I used for a while for a goal cam but it didn't have the advertised range nor the reliability I need, it didn't always fire the shutter even with good line of sight. I have heard of Pocket Wizard, apparently a good quality, reliable product... I have visited their Website but there is scant information, nothing meaningful about range or functions that I can see, just pretty pictures and marketing blurb. My need is simple, a good quality, reliable device to remotely open my D800 shutter for an hour or more, from at least 100 Metres, preferably significantly more, to allow for loss of line of sight. Price is a consideration obviously but robust reliability and functionality are vital.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 04:21 |
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2nd Post |
GeoffR
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I have a Neewer remote control set the NW-870. The receiver takes a CR2 battery and the transmitter uses two AAAs and they seem to have a decent life. The receiver sits in the camera's hot shoe and connects to the 10 pin terminal. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be available any more but this looks very similar Nikon remote .
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 06:26 |
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3rd Post |
chrisbet
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This one has a claimed 150m range - Hama DCCS
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 06:49 |
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4th Post |
Iain
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chrisbet wrote:This one has a claimed 150m range - Hama DCCS I used to use a similar one to this for behind the goal when I was working and it worked well.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 08:09 |
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5th Post |
jk
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I have a PocketWizard Plus and also the newer version PlusX. You would need two units to work as a wireless transmitter and receiver combo. The range is as claimed and is very simple to make the cables work or extend if you have the ten pin connector already. The pinouts for the 10pin cable are here. https://www.alldigi.com/2010/04/making-a-nikon-camera-remote-control-release/
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 09:42 |
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6th Post |
Graham Whistler
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Geoff thanks for that it looks good and will work with my D850) & D500 so have just ordered one will report results in due time.
____________________ Graham Whistler |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 12:09 |
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7th Post |
jk
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Just had a chance to sit down and consider this is in more detail. A wired solution is not practical so I wont talk about this other than to say if you have 100m flapping in the wind/sea then you may be asking for problems. Technically I dont know if such a long cable would work without some repeater/amplifier in circuit. A wireless solution is much better. The unit you showed possibly/probably only has a range of 50m max. The PocketWizards are used by professional wildlife shooters because they are robust and have a range up to 200m depending on the model. These units are expensive but work. I have a pair of PlusX units and several PocketWizard Max and MaxPlus units. All will work. I have the AC3, MiniTT1 and FLexTT5 units as well and apparently they work as well but I have never used them in this way. In fact I didnt realise that they would do this as I bought the setup to control my SB800 units. The PW Max has the greatest range I think. Be careful as PW units are configured for USA use and UK use! You can buy USA units in UK on ebay. The USA ones will work but are technically illegal to use. Say no more about this other than for the amount you will be using them and in that location who cares, except if/when you are feeling paranoid! "Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the blind obeyance by fools and idiots!" All you do is use the correct cable and plug it into the PW unit (jack socket) for the camera end and the unit (configured as receiver) sits in the hot shoe the other end plugs into the 10 pin socket. You can also get a connector for the new Nikon multi-connector found on new cameras not in the professional range!. The other end (configured as the transmitter) you have in your pocket. It just works. Depending on the model the range differs. Info on the PW PlusX https://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=PlusX Pair of units in UK on eBAy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PocketWizard-Plus-X-Transceiver-433MHz-PlusX-Set-of-2/133392070574?hash=item1f0ec977ae:g:XrcAAOSwaktegkwu Technical Information Frequency FCC/IC model: 344.04MHz CE model: 433.62 MHz Channels 10 Standard Channels Reverse compatible with all PocketWizard radios using Standard Channels using the same frequency. Zones Single zone Antenna Precision tuned internal coil Channel Setting Backlit rotating dial Range Up to 1,600 feet (500 meters) (Actual range is dependent on multiple factors including equipment, mode, environment, positioning, orientation and interference) Sync Speed Up to 1/250 for focal plane shutters Triggering Speed Up to 14.5 FPS Contact Time 62 milliseconds in normal operation Status Indicator LED: Green, Amber, Red status indications Solid Red: Triggering signal sending or receiving Single Green Blink: Status OK, > 50% battery life Double Amber Blink: Battery life < 50% but > 25% Triple Red Blink: Battery life < 25%, change batteries Transmit Output Power Less than 1 milliwatt (0.001 watt) Power Two (2), AA (LR6), 1.5v alkaline recommended NiMH, NiCAD, NiZn, Lithium acceptable (these chemistries may not report battery life accurately) DO NOT USE 3.6V Li-Ion AA cells! Battery Life Up to 100 hours (with alkaline batteries)
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25th, 2020 17:52 |
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8th Post |
Eric
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The problem? with all these solutions (for me at least)is you cannot actually see what you are taking at the time of exposure. If the camera moves from its set up position (for whatever reason) you won't know until you review the image later. That apart, I am not sure I want to leave my camera 200m away while I go for a cuppa. Round here it wouldn't be there when I got back.  During lockdown I've been using the wireless remote app for my wife's Panasonic Fz2000 to film nightly hedgehog activity....from my armchair. Admittedly the WiFi range on the camera isn't great but having full control over camera settings (fstop, shutter, iso, ex.comp., metering and focus modes....and zoom) with a live view is a more complete solution to my mind.  Click here to comment on this image.
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 03:26 |
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9th Post |
jk
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Those Panasonic FZ series of cameras are all very capable and full featured. They are never best of xyz but always good at everything. I thought long and hard before I got my Nikon P510 and the only thing that it had over the equivalent Panasonic was GPS. The Panasonic was better or equal in every other feature.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2020 11:12 |
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10th Post |
Robert
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jk wrote:Just had a chance to sit down and consider this is in more detail. Thank's JK, that is very helpful, however, I am still not completely sure what the pocket wizard actually does... I am assuming when you press the button on the remote it releases the shutter on the camera, with a pulse command? In order to use shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds the camera has to be in 'bulb' mode and the shutter release has to be 'held down' (continually) for the duration of the exposure. The MC-36 can time exposures of 0 s to 99 hrs 59 min 59 s (in one-second increments). I usually work in the range of 30 to 60 minutes for star-trails in bulb, or 60 to 100 individual 30 second exposures in time lapse when using the in-camera intervalometer. Anyway... I just had a 'light bulb' moment, having downloaded the Nikon MC-36 manual, I have just realised the MC-36 can delay the start of the exposure. All I need to do is time how long it takes to get out of the critical zone where there is possibly of contaminating the image with my presence and stray light, add a bit, say another minute then have the MC-36 start the exposure automatically. Another gem of info from the MC-36 manual, the timer can be programmed before connecting it to the camera! That means I can program it at home or in the car, rather than fumbling with it in the cold and dark with gloves on. Provided I wait until the exposure is complete, I can return to the camera without spoiling the image. So, it would appear I already have all the equipment I need.  Much of the problem was setting the MC-36 up at the camera site in the dark, it's task enough setting the camera up, remembering to set framing and alignment on Polaris, focus, aperture, shutter to bulb, ISO etc., all in the dark.I am going to make an arm or bracket to mount the MC-36 on so it doesn't flap around in the wind and so I can have it facing my refuge point, so I can see the illuminated LED which indicates the shutter is open with my binoculars. Now where is that flask...
____________________ Robert. |
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| This is topic ID = 1817 Current time is 15:12 | Page: 1 2 3 4 5 | |
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