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| Moderated by: chrisbet, | ||
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Robert
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I am frequently having problems with the inability to operate the D800 or D3 from a significant distance. I am wanting to make some long exposures of Oakdale in the region of 45 minutes to an hour to get star trails and to expose the boat in the dim available light. I am moving away from the idea of making multiple short (30 second) exposures for an hour or more, then combining them with software like StarstaX because of all the work of handling so many exposures and then the process of combining them and patching up the gaps etc. I am leaning towards one long exposure, which the D800 now affords me. I realise there are some issues with hot pixels and some noise but on balance I think I prefer the single long exposure. The problem that brings is that I don't want to stand next to the camera for 45 minutes to an hour, I want to retire to a safe distance so I can enjoy a coffee or mug of soup in the comparative warmth of the car. It gets pretty cold sitting or standing out in the open next to the camera, especially on a freezing, windy night. Frankly the experience puts me off. With multiple short exposures I can discard the first two or three exposures and the last three as I depart from the camera and return in the darkness wearing my red head torch but with a single long exposure any light contamination, even from a dim red headtorch, at the start and end of the exposure ruins the entire exposure. I have no choice but to use a torch, especially on the shore because there are numerous small channels, potentially with quicksand, which I can fall into at night on my own. If I could start and end the exposure from a safe distance, either with a hard wire remote or better, a proper radio remote control on the 2.4Ghz band with at least 80 to 100 Metres reliable range, ideally up to a mile because some places I go I can't maintain line of sight on the camera from my refuge, so I need a margin of safety. As one might expect I have been exploring eBay for a possible candidate but the real choice seems limited, Link to Remote . There are several, basically the same which seem to emulate the Nikon MC36 functions but with radio. They seem to be too cheap, (you can't spend a little and expect a lot) I had a basic radio remote which I used for a while for a goal cam but it didn't have the advertised range nor the reliability I need, it didn't always fire the shutter even with good line of sight. I have heard of Pocket Wizard, apparently a good quality, reliable product... I have visited their Website but there is scant information, nothing meaningful about range or functions that I can see, just pretty pictures and marketing blurb. My need is simple, a good quality, reliable device to remotely open my D800 shutter for an hour or more, from at least 100 Metres, preferably significantly more, to allow for loss of line of sight. Price is a consideration obviously but robust reliability and functionality are vital. |
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GeoffR
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I have a Neewer remote control set the NW-870. The receiver takes a CR2 battery and the transmitter uses two AAAs and they seem to have a decent life. The receiver sits in the camera's hot shoe and connects to the 10 pin terminal. Unfortunately it doesn't appear to be available any more but this looks very similar Nikon remote . |
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chrisbet
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This one has a claimed 150m range - Hama DCCS |
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Iain
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chrisbet wrote:This one has a claimed 150m range - Hama DCCSI used to use a similar one to this for behind the goal when I was working and it worked well. |
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jk
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I have a PocketWizard Plus and also the newer version PlusX. You would need two units to work as a wireless transmitter and receiver combo. The range is as claimed and is very simple to make the cables work or extend if you have the ten pin connector already. The pinouts for the 10pin cable are here. https://www.alldigi.com/2010/04/making-a-nikon-camera-remote-control-release/ |
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Graham Whistler
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Geoff thanks for that it looks good and will work with my D850) & D500 so have just ordered one will report results in due time. |
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jk
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Just had a chance to sit down and consider this is in more detail. A wired solution is not practical so I wont talk about this other than to say if you have 100m flapping in the wind/sea then you may be asking for problems. Technically I dont know if such a long cable would work without some repeater/amplifier in circuit. A wireless solution is much better. The unit you showed possibly/probably only has a range of 50m max. The PocketWizards are used by professional wildlife shooters because they are robust and have a range up to 200m depending on the model. These units are expensive but work. I have a pair of PlusX units and several PocketWizard Max and MaxPlus units. All will work. I have the AC3, MiniTT1 and FLexTT5 units as well and apparently they work as well but I have never used them in this way. In fact I didnt realise that they would do this as I bought the setup to control my SB800 units. The PW Max has the greatest range I think. Be careful as PW units are configured for USA use and UK use! You can buy USA units in UK on ebay. The USA ones will work but are technically illegal to use. Say no more about this other than for the amount you will be using them and in that location who cares, except if/when you are feeling paranoid! "Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the blind obeyance by fools and idiots!" All you do is use the correct cable and plug it into the PW unit (jack socket) for the camera end and the unit (configured as receiver) sits in the hot shoe the other end plugs into the 10 pin socket. You can also get a connector for the new Nikon multi-connector found on new cameras not in the professional range!. The other end (configured as the transmitter) you have in your pocket. It just works. Depending on the model the range differs. Info on the PW PlusX https://wiki.pocketwizard.com/index.php?title=PlusX Pair of units in UK on eBAy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PocketWizard-Plus-X-Transceiver-433MHz-PlusX-Set-of-2/133392070574?hash=item1f0ec977ae:g:XrcAAOSwaktegkwu Technical Information Frequency FCC/IC model: 344.04MHz CE model: 433.62 MHz Channels 10 Standard Channels Reverse compatible with all PocketWizard radios using Standard Channels using the same frequency. Zones Single zone Antenna Precision tuned internal coil Channel Setting Backlit rotating dial Range Up to 1,600 feet (500 meters) (Actual range is dependent on multiple factors including equipment, mode, environment, positioning, orientation and interference) Sync Speed Up to 1/250 for focal plane shutters Triggering Speed Up to 14.5 FPS Contact Time 62 milliseconds in normal operation Status Indicator LED: Green, Amber, Red status indications Solid Red: Triggering signal sending or receiving Single Green Blink: Status OK, > 50% battery life Double Amber Blink: Battery life < 50% but > 25% Triple Red Blink: Battery life < 25%, change batteries Transmit Output Power Less than 1 milliwatt (0.001 watt) Power Two (2), AA (LR6), 1.5v alkaline recommended NiMH, NiCAD, NiZn, Lithium acceptable (these chemistries may not report battery life accurately) DO NOT USE 3.6V Li-Ion AA cells! Battery Life Up to 100 hours (with alkaline batteries) |
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Eric
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The problem? with all these solutions (for me at least)is you cannot actually see what you are taking at the time of exposure. If the camera moves from its set up position (for whatever reason) you won't know until you review the image later. That apart, I am not sure I want to leave my camera 200m away while I go for a cuppa. Round here it wouldn't be there when I got back.  During lockdown I've been using the wireless remote app for my wife's Panasonic Fz2000 to film nightly hedgehog activity....from my armchair. Admittedly the WiFi range on the camera isn't great but having full control over camera settings (fstop, shutter, iso, ex.comp., metering and focus modes....and zoom) with a live view is a more complete solution to my mind.  Click here to comment on this image. |
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jk
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Those Panasonic FZ series of cameras are all very capable and full featured. They are never best of xyz but always good at everything. I thought long and hard before I got my Nikon P510 and the only thing that it had over the equivalent Panasonic was GPS. The Panasonic was better or equal in every other feature. |
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Robert
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jk wrote:Just had a chance to sit down and consider this is in more detail. Thank's JK, that is very helpful, however, I am still not completely sure what the pocket wizard actually does... I am assuming when you press the button on the remote it releases the shutter on the camera, with a pulse command? In order to use shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds the camera has to be in 'bulb' mode and the shutter release has to be 'held down' (continually) for the duration of the exposure. The MC-36 can time exposures of 0 s to 99 hrs 59 min 59 s (in one-second increments). I usually work in the range of 30 to 60 minutes for star-trails in bulb, or 60 to 100 individual 30 second exposures in time lapse when using the in-camera intervalometer. Anyway... I just had a 'light bulb' moment, having downloaded the Nikon MC-36 manual, I have just realised the MC-36 can delay the start of the exposure. All I need to do is time how long it takes to get out of the critical zone where there is possibly of contaminating the image with my presence and stray light, add a bit, say another minute then have the MC-36 start the exposure automatically. Another gem of info from the MC-36 manual, the timer can be programmed before connecting it to the camera! That means I can program it at home or in the car, rather than fumbling with it in the cold and dark with gloves on. Provided I wait until the exposure is complete, I can return to the camera without spoiling the image. So, it would appear I already have all the equipment I need.  Much of the problem was setting the MC-36 up at the camera site in the dark, it's task enough setting the camera up, remembering to set framing and alignment on Polaris, focus, aperture, shutter to bulb, ISO etc., all in the dark.I am going to make an arm or bracket to mount the MC-36 on so it doesn't flap around in the wind and so I can have it facing my refuge point, so I can see the illuminated LED which indicates the shutter is open with my binoculars. Now where is that flask... |
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jk
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Bit early for the brandy so I guess it is tea or coffee! So MC-36 will work for you that is best as it is no extra cost. The PW units only trigger but wont hold the shutter open for a single long exposure. |
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Robert
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jk wrote:Bit early for the brandy so I guess it is tea or coffee!Coffee! I like the no extra cost and not having to learn yet another piece of kit! These devices have so many nook and cranny features, I doubt many of us ever use all the features or perhaps even realise they exist. Thanks for confirming the PW units simply provide remote shutter buttons. It may seem obvious but I think photo-gear feature lists should be explicit without ambiguous terms or descriptions, like Nikon calling infrared remotes, "wireless". While it may be true that there are no wires, wireless usually means radio, I find the misuse of these terms irksome. |
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Robert
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Currently running a test in my spare bedroom, five minutes delay followed by a one hour exposure, controlled by the MC-36, camera in manual mode, bulb. I will see the results in the morning. |
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Robert
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OK, so the D800/MC-36 combo took one photograph. D800- Nikkor 18-35 3.5-4.5 1 hour @ f3.5 ISO 400, 5 minutes delay, 1 hour exposure.  Click here to comment on this image. The room was so dark it was impossible to see anything, the curtains were closed, no lights to the back of the house. The MC-36 worked perfectly, allowing me to retreat with the lights on and potentially return at the end of the exposure without spoiling the image. Therefore I have been busy, I have made a simple hook for the back of the MC-36 and a mating bracket for the tripod. One thing has bugged me has been the MC-36 dangling under the tripod, there is no easy way to neatly and securely restrain it in a helpful position. There is an LED indicator which gives some indication of status, it flashes during the exposure. The MC-36 has an annoying habit of gradually turning away from my refuge location during the exposure so it's hard to be sure that all is well. Now it's a simple matter to set the tripod with the bracket orientated towards my planned refuge location, so I can watch it with binoculars. If I can raise the energy I will try it out tonight, last night the moon was perfect with the sunset, but by the time I saw it it was too late to take photo's. |
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chrisbet
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I don't think much of the composition  |
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Robert
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chrisbet wrote:I don't think much of the compositionThat's the problem with taking pictures in the dark! |
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jk
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Well done Robert. Problem solved. I suggest that a small neoprene bag will protect it in case of detachment! |
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chrisbet
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.. but then he can't see it flashing through his bins |
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Robert
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Just back in from my first session, 200 frames at 20 second intervals of the sunset over the Lake District mountains and fells, maybe interesting cloud movement and perhaps even lighting when the clouds got a tinge of purple, we will see. Back out later, forecast clear skies until 1am. I was going to leave the tripod out but Eric has got me worried. I am slowly making friends with the grey cat, it sat on the stern watching me all evening. I even managed to stroke it. |
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jk
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chrisbet wrote:.. but then he can't see it flashing through his binsMaybe he needs a magnetic fixing as well! |
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Robert
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Don't intend to use MC-36 in wet conditions! Nor my precious D800, so plastic bags aren't needed. The stainless steel clip and bracket on the tripod worked perfectly, not done a long exposure in the dark yet so I can't tell how visible the LED will be from a distance. Well, the clouds got the better of me and there don't seem to be any clear night skies in the next two weeks. I spent the time wrestling with iMovie, really frustrating software, which DOESN'T 'just work', you can't even save, or make versions, let alone 'Save As'. I really need Premier or something less hobbled than iMovie but the cost is prohibitive. Just realised, (remembered) Photoshop does movies, animation etc. will try assembling the frames through Ps later... It's a bit rudimentary but for a simple time-lapse it may work.I have managed to cobble together a short video, a time-lapse of the Duddon Estuary during sunset. I should have let the camera run for another hundred frames but I think it get's the message across. It's just that the clouds were just getting really active as I cut at 200 frames, just as they were starting to boil. The trouble is, watching the action in real time you don't notice the interesting activity develop. I have accounts on Vimeo and YouTube, also Flicker, but I don't think Flicker do video (Which would be a bit odd given their name!), I can't find my Vimeo acc. details, I'm not keen on You Tube, (Google) so I will go and see if I can upload it to Flicker. |
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Robert
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Here is the short video which I have managed to upload to Flicker... after much head scratching. Click on the image and it should take you to my Flicker page and play the video. The jump in the middle of the clip is just a four minute gap where I had wandered off to talk to Dave, when I returned to the camera I restarted a second 100 frames but really I should have made that 200. You can delete images but you can't do anything, if you didn't record them in the first place...  |
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chrisbet
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Interesting to watch the cloud movements. Oakdale doesn't look so bad for the aft few feet .... |
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Robert
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Thanks for looking Chris, no, the stern is the best bit! It's a pity the name is missing at the starboard, stern quarter. I am guessing the cloud activity in the last few seconds is probably caused by the Sun setting, the turbulence is striking, sadly I missed the main action. I think that would have been the beginning of the cloudy night as temperatures dropped. |
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Eric
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Robert wrote:Don't intend to use MC-36 in wet conditions! Nor my precious D800, so plastic bags aren't needed. The stainless steel clip and bracket on the tripod worked perfectly, not done a long exposure in the dark yet so I can't tell how visible the LED will be from a distance.  Click here to comment on this image. Don't understand your comment about iMovie? You can save the finished film in a variety of definitions or export it for sharing with anyone by any of the common communication methods. If you save it....then go back and edit again, it saves a new file automatically. |
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Robert
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Eric wrote:Don't understand your comment about iMovie? You can save the finished film in a variety of definitions or export it for sharing with anyone by any of the common communication methods. If you save it....then go back and edit again, it saves a new file automatically. I am assuming you are using an iPad or similar? with iMovie on a desktop (iMac) the icon you describe is 'Export' not 'Save'. 'Export' is totally different from 'Saving' or 'Saving As', on most software you can 'Save' the document and 'Save As' by a different name, thereby increment the document in case you want to go back a stage. The 'Save' you describe is actually 'Export', which compiles the movie in one of several optional formats, probably defaulting to MP4. You can't go back to an MP4 document and edit it, at least not without re-importing it, which I think would need additional software. I don't think iMovie can edit an MP4 video, I have tried in the past. |
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Eric
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Robert wrote:I am assuming you are using an iPad or similar? with iMovie on a desktop (iMac) the icon you describe is 'Export' not 'Save'. 'Export' is totally different from 'Saving' or 'Saving As', on most software you can 'Save' the document and 'Save As' by a different name, thereby increment the document in case you want to go back a stage. The 'Save' you describe is actually 'Export', which compiles the movie in one of several optional formats, probably defaulting to MP4. You can't go back to an MP4 document and edit it, at least not without re-importing it, which I think would need additional software. I don't think iMovie can edit an MP4 video, I have tried in the past.It exports (from iPad ) as a .movmobile file that can be reopened as a copy in iMovie for further editing without any compression loss. It than can be reexported as that unique copy for future use on the native machine or saved as a .mov file (compressed) for other uses. Jan's Panasonic shoots video in .mp4 and I have no problems opening them in iMovie (on the iPad). In fact the hedgehog clips I have been doing were taken on her camera and they are mp4 (just checked). I am not sure if Nikon captures video in a different format to the Panasonic? |
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jk
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Robert as you say. Just Import the video into iMovie and re-edit it. Then save/export in whatever format you want. If it wont do the format you need/want then there are other softwares that allow cross-converting to different formats if iMovie cant do it, e.g. Xilisoft Video Converter Ultimate works well for me. |
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Eric
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jk wrote:Robert as you say.I always thought .mov and .mp4 were the same quality standard and interchangeable on most platforms and software? |
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jk
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Eric wrote:I always thought .mov and .mp4 were the same quality standard and interchangeable on most platforms and software?The main difference between these two container formats is that MOV is mostly for use within Mac environments. MOV is a proprietary Apple file format for QuickTime, while MP4 is an international standard. ... But on other types of devices, video MOV files need to be converted to MP4s or another file format. Encoded with the same codec MPEG-4, MP4 is similar to MOV. Actually, MP4 was developed on the basis of MOV file format. Both are lossy and can be used in the QuickTime environment. ... Therefore, MP4 is more flexible than MOV. |
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Robert
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I just had a play... I placed a rather nice, chirpy estuary bird, wallowing in mud MP4 clip taken with a Panasonic camera and the MP4 version of my sunset movie into iMovie together. I can cut and clip, stretch and squash, insert *new* transitions, titles and any other effects into the movie. What I can NOT do is EDIT any of the pre-existing titles, framing, fades or effects in my Sunset Movie, yes, I can edit anew but not adjust any previously created effects, that is the whole point of what I was trying to say, but not explaining it very well. Once an iMovie (or any other movie creation software) has compiled the component parts of the work, the transitions, titles and effects (which can take HOURS to get right) are no longer directly editable. They can be cut out then redone, split, chopped up or re-edited perhaps but effectively once compiled, they are locked, a wrongly spelt name in the credits and the whole compiled movie is junk. Most 'serious' software (Adobe Premier?) allows the original document to be saved, in most cases incrementally (to allow two or more options to be tried? so the editor can revert to an earlier point) and re-edit, PRIOR to compilation, compilation is far more than just saving the movie, it locks all the clips, images, sounds and effects and converts the whole assembly to one homogenous file. Back in the early 2000's I used Final Cut Pro on my fairly competent dual processor, liquid cooled, Power Mac and it used to need to spend all night compiling a modest 15 minute movie of the kids taken on a Sony tape cassette video camera. It was a non trivial process, far removed from simply saving the file. I can still access the uncompiled version of my Oakdale Sunset movie, but only the version immediately prior to compilation. If I wanted to experiment with the layout I would have to start over from scratch, I can't save what I have, then edit the file a different way. This is one of the reasons I try to stay as far from video as possible because of the complications of editing it. It's probably why the software is so expensive because not too may people want or need to jump through these hoops, so the cost divided by the projected number of users tends to make it expensive; and it's complex, sophisticated software too. |
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chrisbet
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I have Premier Pro and it is not an easy bit of software to use! It also takes a veeeeeeery long time to do the final rendering. |
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rmoser
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Try this: https://www.amazon.com/RF-811-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Connector/dp/B002X3GAIS I have one of those. It claims 50 distance. I don't know how accurate that is, but honestly, it's really sort of a garage door opener so it should work. The receiver has a bulb switch on the side. Rob |
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Robert
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chrisbet wrote:I have Premier Pro and it is not an easy bit of software to use! It also takes a veeeeeeery long time to do the final rendering.Photoshop isn't easy either but it's worth learning. Video rendering is one of the toughest computing tasks out there Chris, that is one reason why these 'simplistic' video editing tools are popular, the likes of iMovie priority is to de-complex the editing, make it more predictably easy to render, therefore less demanding on processing power. Keep it simple. As I mentioned above, my PowerMac liquid cooled, dual processor, with a stack of RAM took all night to render a few minutes of video. I believe it's the main reason the new MacPros have been developed apparently regardless of cost, to cope with such heavy lifting in the TV and video industry. It certainly wasn't to play WoW (World of Warcraft to our more senior members! LOL). As a matter of interest, I have just realised Adobe do an iMovie 'lookalike', called Adobe Premier Rush. It seems very similar to iMovie, interestingly it's free to subscribers of the Photography package, Lightroom and Photoshop. I have been aware of it but not what it did, Adobe have a plethora of little apps, some of which I have tried, none of which I could find a use for... It may be a suitable replacement for iMovie. It synchronises files between devices, desktop and hand held, although that can be turned off, it can be handy to pull video data from an iPhone into a desktop for editing. I have a couple of clips of Dave's rescue from Oakdale on my iPhone, which I may share soon. I think I will download Rush and try it on a short video of the Oakdale rescue. I don't think Rush is a dumbed down Premiere, but coming from the same stable I think it may well share principles and some features, we will see... |
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Robert
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rmoser wrote:Try this: https://www.amazon.com/RF-811-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Connector/dp/B002X3GAISThanks Rob, I have realised I can get the job done with the Nikon MC-36 wired remote, which I already have. |
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Graham Whistler
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Interesting thanks. for that. Pixel TW-283 Wirless Remote arrived today fitted it to the D500 for first quick test it will fire camera on single shots & also on CH firing camera on motor drive as long as button is pressed just as per camera direct. Tried from one room to another including downstairs a fair way from the camera upstairs at other end of house. Will try some long range in morning from end of road with camera in house about 100M. Will report more looks better than two other makes I tried last year and sent both back as not up to the job I wanted. |
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Graham Whistler
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Tested on the D850 seen with set-up and the D500 works + with both fine in house tests even from room to room as stated. Camera then place in upstairs window pointing to end of our road 90 M as seen with next shot. Both cameras worked up to this distance no problem but I then moved round the corner just out of sight perhaps 100 M away and failed to work there with both cameras. Click here to comment on this image. |
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Graham Whistler
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Here is the shot at 90 M self portrait, worked well with both cameras at this distance. But a few paces to the right just our of line of site failed to fire at all with both cameras. Robert if you want to have a go with it let me know and I will post it up to you so you can have it for as long as you like to test when condition are right for you. With lock down I will not be needing to use it for some time yet and it will save you spending money then finding it is not rightr for the job.  Click here to comment on this image. |
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jk
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No COVID-19 suit when out? Mission successful though.  Well done. |
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Robert
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The shades and zapper provide all the protection Graham needs! LOL Many thanks Graham, a most generous offer. The demonstration is very impressive. |
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jk
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Graham, Does this also work if you have it out of line of sight? So if you had the camera inside then can you trigger it through walls, etc. And at what distance? |
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| A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondsl.uk Thank you. |