Author | Post |
---|
blackfox
|
just bought a nikon 60mm f2.8 a/f micro/macro lens off of e-bay it has damage to the focus ring so only auto focus's to about two feet , but I only want it as a insect macro lens so that's fine with me .. manual focus seems to go out to full range though and what's more important the photos are sharp .. I will look at getting it repaired but that depends on cost. it only cost me just over £50 delivered so if it stays as is it will do anyway heres a few from a play this morning
|
jk
|
No worries over the lack of AF as for macro most of the time you either have on tripod or want to focus close so rocking in/out works well.
Good luck with the lens.
The 60mm and 105mm macro lenses from Nikon are super sharp.
|
blackfox
|
cheers Jonathon I have really taken a instant liking to this little beast . I think over the years I have tried most macro variants , sigma 180,150 ,105 as well as canons and tampons plus Olympus 60mm and never quiet got the i.q I was after hence sold them on again this little pocket rocket has rally taken me by surprise in a mere afternoon of use
|
blackfox
|
couple more from yesterdays try out session
|
amazing50
|
You could use an auto extension tube set for closer shots if required.
|
blackfox
|
thanks , got some marked off on e.bay just need the funds
|
jk
|
Extension tubes are easier and more practical in the field but bellows (model PB-5) gives you monster, variable magnification.
Also look out for a cheap ring flash .
|
blackfox
|
first off I have to get a filter thread tool to straighten out the dented rim ,I can get one for £23 quid with is cheaper than the £80+ plus v.a.t a repairer quoted me . at the moment I have a rogue safari flash extender for the inbuilt flash and also a block of l.e.d lights if needed . at 73 though I don't envisage to much crawling around or hands and knees work
|
Robert
|
The Nikkor micro 60D, f/2.8 is not a good candidate for adding extension tubes, auto or dumb.
The lens goes to 1:1 without the need for tubes. Because this lens has an extreme version of CRC (close range correction) the front element to subject distance becomes inconveniently short. In effect it's a zoom focus lens, shortening the focal length by approximately 50% at full extension, which is how it manages to get 1:1 without extension tubes.
The Nikkor micro 55mm is a much better lens, I dumped the 60 in favour of a 55, which is an excellent lens and will accept extension tubes or bellows without any issues.
Used as intended, the Nikkor micro 60mm 'D' is a good enough lens. It isn't a good candidate for adaptation or pushing the boundaries, I just discussed this with Birna (Bj¸rn) R¸rslet and that is her view.
The CRC mechanism is complex and fragile, there are two groups of elements which focus at different rates, if the lens has been dropped it's likely that only one group of elements are functioning correctly. It will likely be very expensive to fix it properly.
|
blackfox
|
Cheers Robert I had a rough repair estimate of around the £100 mark which makes it not worth doing , I may get the lens filter repair tool as that's only £23 and see if I can straighten that out . As it only cost me £50 and is managing to take reasonable macro shots without a repair I can't justify spending more on it . The profit I made on the sigma 105 has paid for it anyway and it's nice and light to keep in the bag for fun.the a.f within it's limitations I.e up to a couple of feet is fine ..macro is not my forte as you know but worth having for a mess about . I may just try to straighten the focus ring myself in the future . If I break it sa la vie .
|
jk
|
Can you post a picture of the lens and the damaged area Jeff?
|
blackfox
|
as requested Jonathon , 3 shots two showing the damaged area and one the rest of the lens which is in super condition overall and one from this morning of a fly which shows its working within my expectations
|
jk
|
Since you are past worrying about cosmetics. I would say get some needle nosed pliers or a small pair of normal pliers and put some thin silicone or rubber tubing over the serration of the pliers jaws and then carefully restore the outer filter ring to circular. Once the filter ring is restored then go for the focus barrel. This might be a little more tricky as the metal is thicker.
Robert may be able to give you some more skilled advice.
|
Robert
|
Jeff, A simple tool to fix the kink would be a little bending tool, looking at the photographs it seems the ding in the back part could be preventing the front part from going inside the back part and thereby extending the focus to infinity.
What might do it is a cheap roller glass cutter, you should be able to get one from a market or hardware store. They usually have two notches one wider than the other, intended for nibbling small irregularities from the edge of glass. Suitably modified, by cutting off the Roller bit, just leaving the notch which is closest the thickness of the lens flange which is bent.
Placed over the bent bit and gently little by little, you should be able to tease it out so the lens will close.
You could of course just saw and file a slot in a piece of scrap metal. Using a thin piece of hard plastic like a bank card to protect the visible, black part of the lens. Something similar might do the filter flange. That would be my approach. I think ordinary pliers would make a lot of marks and I doubt if you could get them into the main problem area where the front slides into the rear of the lens.
Regarding the front flange, if it could be straightened enough to screw a filter adaptor in, then it were glued in that would get the job done at the front, in fact I think you can get equal 'adaptors' like 62-62mm, so you could retain a standard thread. Like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/62mm-62mm-62mm-to-62mm-62-62mm-Extend-Ring-Filter-Adapter-for-Camera-Lens/113676286297?hash=item1a77a27959:g:560AAOSwDd9Zda3i
You might have to cut a bit more off than I have shown but that sort of thing is standard kit for fine bending of metal like this. I used larger ones for wrought iron gates etc.Attachment: Glass Cutter Tool.jpg (Downloaded 110 times)
|
blackfox
|
cheers rob , you can get a filter thread tool which should do the top bit , your idea for the bottom section does sound a good idea might even have something in the work shop to adapt to do the same job , got my engineering brain ticking anyway will let you know
|
Robert
|
Wow, that was a quick reply! LOL
It's an easy to make tool, you might find the gap needs to be smaller but the plastic will take up some slack
|
chrisbet
|
I would not attempt to use pliers or a bending tool, they will both distort the metal locally and damage threads.
For the front filter rim I would either use the repair tool you mentioned or a suitable diameter delron rod clamped in a vice to support the bent in rim while using a small hammer to tap the outside of the rim to restore its shape.
For the focus ring distortion I would disassemble the ring and do the same or make up a pair of shaped jaws to fit a mole grip to get in behind the rim and fit the outside of the undamaged part of the ring and use that to tease the damage out.
|
blackfox
|
the filter ring I will probably get the tool for , the focus ring needs careful adjusting and I dont think it needs a lot to be honest its just touching enough to stop the a/f from working fully .. I'm happy enough with the results from it as is and dont want to bugger it up so it needs lots of thought
|
novicius
|
Those Pics. are Good and Real Sharp
|
blackfox
|
update on this I have now ordered the lens straightening tool should be here sat, will try to follow up with pics either way
|
Robert
|
Would be interested in a picture of it when you get it.😄
|
blackfox
|
well the tool arrived early . and I have had a play tonight . its taken out the dent in the filter rim nicely and the lens cap at least fits . I have yet to try a filter on it though .. completely knackered at the daughter took us out today for a drive which has left me a bit tired the main benefit though is it seems to have moved the lens barrel back into alignment so the a/f is performing better or as should . here's a quick practise shot from the garden tonight ... will play some more tomorrow when I'm fresher but it looks a good buy for £23 delivered
|
jk
|
Please can you post a picture of the tool Jeff.
Also if you have a url for supplier then others can use in future if necessary.
|
blackfox
|
as requested , feel a bit better this morning just tried a 62mm filter on it as well screwed on fully and taken on and off about six times ..
the tool is available on amazon for £23 delivered or e.bay for £39.99
you have seen the photo above of how severely damaged it was , so I think this was a worthwhile investment ... on this particular lens I found that by doing the repair fully closed helped the lower segment to ease back into position a fair bit as well
|
chrisbet
|
That filter looks cross threaded to me!
|
blackfox
|
possibly was when I took that photo Chris , just double checked and its screwing in nice and tightly and unscrewing to . as I said I took several attempts at it .. will smack my bum with a loofah for being a naughty boy in front of class might even take another photo if I can be a**ed
|
jk
|
Seems like the tool has made a good job on the filter ring, Jeff.
Have you managed to do the lens barrel as well? It looks good from the photo.
Well done.
As Chris says, the filter looks like it is at an angle (?cross threaded?). Does it square up when fully screwed in?
|
blackfox
|
yes it does screw right in , I was in a hurry to take a photo for here and didn't notice it wasn't threaded correctly , have since put it on and off half a dozen times with no problems , the tools itself has threads built into it so it cuts new threads in use like a tap and die set . I won't be using any filters on this lens so its a mute point anyway .
as for the lens barrel thats out of reach but I did the filter thread with the lens locked down tight and it has eased up the barrel and its now zooming fully out and in on the camera under power so mission accomplished . it's now just me that needs to regain some steadiness
|
jk
|
Looks like you have been the surgeon that has restored the 60mm to health. Well done.
Now you need to look after yourself now. No over-exertion!
|
GeoffR
|
blackfox wrote:
I won't be using any filters on this lens so its a mute point anyway.
Being pedantic, the term is Moot point not mute point.
I read some reviews on the tool one of which said it was rubbish, clearly that was wrong because it seems to have worked perfectly for you. And at a fraction of what Nikon would charge.
|
Robert
|
GeoffR wrote:
I read some reviews on the tool one of which said it was rubbish.
Poor workman blaming tool.
I doubt it will cut threads, maybe rub them back into a better shape? Perhaps a gentle squeezing on the two opposite sides across the circle at 90º to the crush might cure the tendency to cross thread. The circle may still be slightly egg shaped still despite you pushing out the bruised rim. This thread is 0.7mm I think, that means a thread depth of about 0.5mm, which is not a lot.
|
blackfox
|
I also read that report , which did make me hesitate on the purchase initially , but finding it available on Amazon at that price was the deciding factor , I also watched the video on u.tube that advocates going in from either side which I did, once it had got over that and moving fairly easily slightly backed off ,I then applied pressure to the actual curve /dent . The end result is what matters though ... I can now fit the lens cap securely , a filter will screw on and off easily .. it's had a bonus that the job appears to have unlocked the functionality of the lens allowing it to zoom in and out on the camera motor where it was jammed tight before and had to be forced manually . And it doesn't appear to have affected the focus at all .. it was still a sweat over job though in case it didn't work out .
The only thing holding me back at the moment is my own lack of mobility and weakness after the heart attack..
BTW I was quoted between £85 and £120 to repair this lens so it's definetly a win win for £23
|
GeoffR
|
Robert wrote:
Poor workman blaming tool.
My thoughts too. Unfortunately some people have never been trained to use any tool and the results are obvious.
|
blackfox
|
BTW and just for the record ,I did two full years at college training for turning and milling .. back in the 80's which I unfortunately never took up as a trade ,as a business proposition was put to me which was far more profitable ..I also worked for m.g.m back in the 60's as a special effects man ,working on 2001 ,and the dirty dozen at elstree studios , so I do know my way round a lot of problems
|