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Bob



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Any comments on Kenko teleplus HDpro DGX   x1.4 teleconverter performance ?

novicius



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Very Good !!....I`ve got one, and also have the Nikkor TC 14 mk.III ,both used with 200-400 f4.0 vr1 .... Nikkor 70-200 f4.0 fls and difference is absolutely minimal , just a tad more CA and distortion, yet nothing to write home about, I got the Kenko first ,and the Nikkor was a sweet deal that I acquired together with the 200-400 later on, if I had to choose between those two TC`s and the price difference was as it usually is, then I would go for the Kenko and not look back, of course keeping in mind that the quality of the master lens is paramount, so I would say,that the Better the master lens is ,the better the Kenko will perform...aforementioned lenses are being used on a Nikon D3s and two D3X camera`s.

jk



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Very good as I have one.  I dont use it often but it is a useful item to have.

Bob



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Thanks for that. I have just bought one for £169 from Clifton Cameras:-)

novicius



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Bob wrote:
Thanks for that. I have just bought one for £169 from Clifton Cameras:-)
Congrats.!! ....what lens do You plan to use it with ?

Eric



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Forgot to add….like the new Avatar.:thumbs:

Bob



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novicius wrote:
Congrats.!! ....what lens do You plan to use it with ?
Nikkor 500 PF ED VR

novicius



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Eric wrote:
Forgot to add….like the new Avatar.:thumbs:
Thank You :bowing:, If it is my new Avatar that You are referring to , but....I can not see the change myself, on my account it does show/say that it has been changed ,but in posting it still shows the monkey in Malaysia, and I have no idea how this is possible ??

novicius



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Bob wrote:
Nikkor 500 PF ED VR
Can n`t wait to hear what You think of that combo.

Bob



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My Kenko 1.4 teleconverter rattles like two skeletons in a dustbin. Is this typical? I have noticed that if I shake the converter gently,the tag shown in the photo rattles, although there is a very light resistance when it is
moved by hand. Apologies for the quality of the photo.

NIKON D600 f/3.3 : Speed 1/60 : ISO 800 : Lens AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED

Eric



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I seem to remember (although just downed a pint of Theakstons Old Peculiar so…) that one of my teleconverter rattled. Can’t recall if it was the Kenko or the Fuji or the Nikon. The Sony one I currently have, doesn’t rattle.

I guess the question is…”how does it smoke?” Appologies…(line from Dances with Wolves referring to new pipe carved by John Dunbar)   I have this condition that causes me to recite phrases from films when vaguely appropriate to the conversation in progress. I should take medication for it.:lol:

Have you used it yet? How does it perform?

Teleconverters work best in moderation (1.4x not so 2x) and when used with a prime lens. 
However they can still perform well with a good zoom lens, but in my experience they do magnify (1.4times) any inherent flaws in the lens …..usually around the edges. A post process crop can remove any peripheral abnormalities and actually give you a bit more effective enlargement of the centre sweet area in the process.

Edit….I am pretty convinced it WAS the Kenko that rattled.

Does it still rattle when attached to the lens before affixing to camera…….and conversely, does it rattle when affixed to the camera body…with or without lens attached? I have a vague recollection it was the locking mechanism that secured it to one or the other parts …that stopped moving when fixed.

OR it might be the contact pins…which again would not move when mounted?  Lord, my memory getting bad!!

chrisbet



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Yes, totally normal when it isn't fitted to the camera and lens, my Nikon convertors do the same, as do plain extension tubes,  the "loose" arm is the connection between the camera aperture lever and the lens and you don't want any friction hindering the "snap" closure of the iris.

The second, outer, lever is lightly spring loaded and is the metering connection between lens and camera.

Bob



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Thanks for those few kind words:-)  At least it's not my fault. I have had little opportunity to use it properly with the 500mm lens, but I took a few snaps late this afternoon. Next door has some sheep roaming around their garden - it's easier than mowing the grass, especially when there is a large amount - and I had a pot at one or two.  Tried with the 500mm and x1.4 mounted, but it wouldn't focus .  I then realised I had forgotten about the effect of the converter on minimum focusing distance. Nevertheless, it's pinsharp at the right distance. The other thing I noticed is the image shake before the shutter button is pressed halfway. It demonstrates how good the VR system is.
Anyway I bolted on the 105mm Micro Nikkor, and shot some fungus to make up for it:devil:



NIKON D600 f/6.3 : Speed 1/200 : ISO 125 : Lens AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED

Eric



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Bob wrote:

Thanks for those few kind words:-)  At least it's not my fault. I have had little opportunity to use it properly with the 500mm lens, but I took a few snaps late this afternoon. Next door has some sheep roaming around their garden - it's easier than mowing the grass, especially when there is a large amount - and I had a pot at one or two.  Tried with the 500mm and x1.4 mounted, but it wouldn't focus .  I then realised I had forgotten about the effect of the converter on minimum focusing distance. Nevertheless, it's pinsharp at the right distance. The other thing I noticed is the image shake before the shutter button is pressed halfway. It demonstrates how good the VR system is.
Anyway I bolted on the 105mm Micro Nikkor, and shot some fungus to make up for it:devil:



NIKON D600 f/6.3 : Speed 1/200 : ISO 125 : Lens AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED

That’s good to know everything is starting to work for you.:thumbs:

Just remember fstop selection!! 

Those toadstools would have had more depth of focus at f11 or f16.

The closer you get to the subject with ANY lens, the shallower the depth of field. So compensate by stopping down.

Eric



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chrisbet wrote:

Yes, totally normal when it isn't fitted to the camera and lens, my Nikon convertors do the same, as do plain extension tubes,  the "loose" arm is the connection between the camera aperture lever and the lens and you don't want any friction hindering the "snap" closure of the iris.

The second, outer, lever is lightly spring loaded and is the metering connection between lens and camera.

Thanks for that clarification…it all makes sense.

jk



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Mine is silent.  I guess I have no skeletons!

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