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| To filter or not! | Rating: 
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| Author | Post |
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| Posted by jk: Wed Sep 4th, 2013 15:01 | 1st Post |
| I was reading the D600 user manual and came across this set of paragraphs. • Use NC filters to protect the lens. • To prevent ghosting, use of a filter is not recommended when the subject is framed against a bright light, or when a bright light source is in the frame. This answers the question of using filters on lenses or not. I personally have a high quality UV filter on all my lenses.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by blackfox: Wed Sep 4th, 2013 16:49 | 2nd Post |
| according to a guy i was speaking to on sunday who was using one ,the only thing you need is a rag to wipe the oil spots off the sensor .and thats exactly what he said to me ,he's had two new shutters fitted ,and its been back for cleaning 3 times each time it comes back externally scratched as well not a happy chappy
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| Posted by jk: Wed Sep 4th, 2013 17:07 | 3rd Post |
| Nikon said that they had fixed the oil problem on the D600. It is an item that makes me wary of getting a D600. 20-24MP is as many pixels as I want or need.
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| Posted by Robert: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 03:33 | 4th Post |
| This one is as old as the hills, we all have our views sometimes passionately held and frequently conflicting. While I can see some merit in using a plain glass protector in front of very expensive and often soft front elements, longer fast lenses with large front elements usually already have an internal filter holder which is part of the optical path. My view is never to insert additional glass where it is not strictly needed for photographic purposes.
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by Squarerigger: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 08:02 | 5th Post |
| That's a real shame Jeff. I have a D600 and initially also had the oil spots after several hundred shots. I sent my D600 in to Nikon USA and they replaced the shutter mechanism and after over 8000 more shots I have no more oil problems. The camera returned to me looking like new. Maybe he needs to find another repair facility to get the issue fixed. Now back on topic  I used to be a fan of putting a protective filter on the front of each lens as soon as I got it. Now I carry a protective filter and use it if I should be in a very harsh environment other wise I just let the hood protect the filter.Just my 2 cents with.
____________________ -------------------------------------------- Gary |
| Posted by jk: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 08:21 | 6th Post |
Squarerigger wrote:That's a real shame Jeff. I have a D600 and initially also had the oil spots after several hundred shots. I sent my D600 in to Nikon USA and they replaced the shutter mechanism and after over 8000 more shots I have no more oil problems. The camera returned to me looking like new. Glad to know you are sorted as far as the oil problem on the D600. I'm thinking that I may get one when I am in UK later this month. Regarding the item to filter or not this is an age old one. For me I feel that since I dont use/buy camera insurance then a £â‚¬$30 on the front of the lens is my insurance. I understand Robert's thought and if I want then I do actually remove the filter.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 10:33 | 7th Post |
| Generally speaking I am very careful with my camera gear, but for the last couple of years I have been following my passion for working on cars. I bought a D5100 specifically for video, I have hardly used it for that but I have found it invaluable as a point and shoot for taking snaps of my car projects. I grab it with oily hands, the boys pick it up and take snaps and it's generally bumped about. It usually sits next to or on the tool box. I bought the lens from my buddy who sells surplus gear on eBay, when I asked him for an 18-105 he was aghast, he only had two and he donned a pair of brand new cotton gloves, he fitted it to my 5100 like it was made of crystal glass. He would throw a dicky fit if he saw it now, bumped and scraped, it also has a 10mm scratch on the front element when it got a bit too close to something hard and sharp but like the sales patter on fleaBay says, you can't tell in the photographs. The only time you can see it is taking pix straight into the sun, it throws up a lovely streak of green/blue flare! Easily fixed by altering the framing slightly. As for the video, I do plan to bolt the camera to one of my cars if I ever get one on the road, and record some of my trips along the classic Lake District lanes and passes. I did take the camer onto the estuary sands on a quad one day while the tide was right out. I rode in a big circle and it gave a really nice panorama of the estuary and the surrounding hills. Considering it was hand held and a bit bumpy I was very impressed with the result. Every bit as good as the crappy videos you see on YouTube!!! 
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by jk: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 11:13 | 8th Post |
Robert wrote: As for the video, I do plan to bolt the camera to one of my cars if I ever get one on the road, and record some of my trips along the classic Lake District lanes and passes. I did take the camera onto the estuary sands on a quad one day while the tide was right out. I rode in a big circle and it gave a really nice panorama of the estuary and the surrounding hills. A nice 1/4" Whitworth bolt through the body work will provide a nice anchor point!! Or you can get all elegant and use one of the expensive car camera mounts at £50+. 
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 12:04 | 9th Post |
jk wrote:A nice 1/4" Whitworth bolt through the body work will provide a nice anchor point!! It would be interesting to try to make a floating arm to absorb some of the impact of the more violent bumps and landings. It might need a gyro like the helicopter mounts but they cost a fortune... Probably just bolt a quick release to the screen hoop. I went over Hardknot Pass a couple of weeks ago and on one corner we went onto two wheels, LOL an oncoming motorist glared at me like I had done something wrong??? The boys loved it!
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by jk: Thu Sep 5th, 2013 14:10 | 10th Post |
| As long as it was not two wheels over the edge!!!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Constable: Sat Sep 7th, 2013 02:31 | 11th Post |
| .. and of course, two on one side, not the two front or two back! Ed
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| Posted by jk: Sat Sep 7th, 2013 04:16 | 12th Post |
Constable wrote:.. and of course, two on one side, not the two front or two back! Very true.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Sat Sep 7th, 2013 05:15 | 13th Post |
| I think we had all three alternatives Ed, it's a VERY undulating road, not to mention extremely steep and very twisty. Did I mention narrow? It's so steep the road builders can't get road rollers up there so the surface is quite rough. A couple of Video's which give a slight feel of the conditions. The language in the first video is a little... earthy? Turn the sound down if you find it offensive. 35 seconds into the first video was our biggest 'moment' The road surface has completely broken up at that point now and we had a heavy landing on two nearside wheels but no big deal, the drop was behind us. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmJrCbL8GrI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xJCqS9cWMg
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by blackfox: Sat Sep 7th, 2013 11:31 | 14th Post |
| not bad ,do it again with a caravan in tow
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| Posted by Eric: Sat Sep 7th, 2013 14:52 | 15th Post |
Robert wrote:I think we had all three alternatives Ed, it's a VERY undulating road, not to mention extremely steep and very twisty. Did I mention narrow? I remember charging up and over Hardknot some years back. Forgot we had the dog in the back (estate car). When we stopped the clawed scratch marks on the floor matting were a picture to behold. Almost a surreal artwork. It was at the Roman fort there where I first learnt the romans used a sponge on a stick in lieu of loo paper. It sort of stuck in my mind.
____________________ Eric |
| Posted by Constable: Sun Sep 8th, 2013 01:30 | 16th Post |
Better to stick in your mind than elsewhere ....
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| Posted by Eric: Sun Sep 8th, 2013 16:36 | 17th Post |
Constable wrote:Better to stick in your mind than elsewhere .... True. Hey Ed....how about an update on life with Canon? Would be interested to hear what you have discovered? I am not planning on changing ships again but some people have voiced this possibility on the forum of late. Might be helpful one way or the other.
____________________ Eric |
| Posted by blackfox: Sun Sep 8th, 2013 17:56 | 18th Post |
i am NOT some people i'll have you know and i seem to be settling in quite nicely with the replacement 7100 now all it needed was a hug 
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| Posted by jk: Sun Sep 8th, 2013 18:15 | 19th Post |
| This people very happy with his Nikons as well but I do occasionally hanker after the odd piece of Canon kit!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Eric: Mon Sep 9th, 2013 03:10 | 20th Post |
blackfox wrote:i am NOT some people i'll have you know Not singling you out Jeff....a couple of other posters earlier this year also muted a move. To be honest, as I thin down my Nikon gear, I am also move able to change and interested (being a former Canon shooter) so get some real comparison feedback. Although my requirement would be a lightweight DSLR system, which I suspect Canon are no more likely to achieve than Nikon.
____________________ Eric |
| Posted by richw: Mon Sep 9th, 2013 07:15 | 21st Post |
| Scott Kelby has switched from Nikon D4 to Canon D1 for his sports shooting, apparently the high ISO performance of the Canon is so good it was worth switching. Of course the fact that Canon lent him two bodies and a bunch of lenses probably didn't hurt!
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| Posted by jk: Mon Sep 9th, 2013 08:47 | 22nd Post |
richw wrote: Scott Kelby has switched from Nikon D4 to Canon D1 for his sports shooting, apparently the high ISO performance of the Canon is so good it was worth switching. Of course the fact that Canon lent him two bodies and a bunch of lenses probably didn't hurt!Oh the trials of being rich and famous! Then the paparazzi follow you around wanting to take your photo, you get the best tables in restaurants, free meals, and the list goes on. No longer do you have to open your wallet, people just give you things. Never seem to find that 'problem' happens to me very often. 
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by blackfox: Mon Sep 9th, 2013 16:16 | 23rd Post |
Eric wrote:blackfox wrote: in all honesty i think i already have that solution eric ,the d7100 ,coupled with the 300mm f4 plus 1.4 and 1.7tc's gives you superb definition ,plus 300mm ,420mm,500mm and 1.5 mtr close focus ,all in all a very fast light setup . my lad is hankering after the new canon 70d so it will be easy to see if its any better or not soon
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| Posted by amazing50: Mon Sep 9th, 2013 20:46 | 24th Post |
| There is an inexpensive Nikkor lens to Canon body adaptor available that has a chip but doesn't auto focus etc. Don't know if there is a high end one that runs all the lens functions. The lenses do focus to infinity because Nikkor lenses require about 1mm more distance to focus than Canon.
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by amazing50: Wed Oct 9th, 2013 01:46 | 25th Post |
| Leica R lenses adapt well to thw Canon 5D Mark 111 body for some realy super sharp photos.
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by jk: Wed Oct 9th, 2013 12:36 | 26th Post |
amazing50 wrote: Leica R lenses adapt well to thw Canon 5D Mark 111 body for some realy super sharp photos. I guess that everything seems astonishingly sharp if you have spent all that money on the Leica R lenses. I would also expect that the bank manager will be astonishingly sharp with you if you dont have enough money to cover the purchase!!!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by amazing50: Thu Oct 10th, 2013 14:59 | 27th Post |
| The prices for Leica R lenses seem to be highly dependant on condition and original packaging, with a slightly scuffed 50mm going for $500 to $600 while an identical mint for $3500. Some people have have great lenses from older cameras packed away not realizing that there are lots of reasonably priced adaptors on ebay like Hasselblad to Nikon.
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by jk: Thu Oct 10th, 2013 16:22 | 28th Post |
| I have considered buying some Hasselblad CF lenses and a Nikon to Hasselblad adapter just to get fast flask sync speeds. However if I bought the lenses then the temptation to buy a digital back and body would be too much for me and I am sure I would soon have a complete digital Hasselblad setup. This is something that I might desire but dont need!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by amazing50: Thu Oct 10th, 2013 19:54 | 29th Post |
| High flash sync speeds are only possible if someone makes an adaptor that will **** and release the shutter from the rear of the lens, as it is screw **** and pin release. Also these old lenses would need a pro cleaning and shutter calibration as most run slow.
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by amazing50: Thu Oct 10th, 2013 19:59 | 30th Post |
amazing50 wrote: High flash sync speeds are only possible if someone makes an adaptor that will **** and release the shutter from the rear of the lens, as it is screw **** and pin release.This software is too politically correct .
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by amazing50: Thu Oct 10th, 2013 20:04 | 31st Post |
| From now on I will have to "clock" the shutter
____________________ There is nothing worse than a sharp image of a fuzzy concept ;~) Mike Grace |
| Posted by cab: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 14:35 | 32nd Post |
| Hi I am a newbie , back to the filter issue I used to use 35mm slrs many moons ago and always used UV .Then Hoya was the preferred brand, what I would like to know is there a cheaper brand that is as good. Just getting back into Photography and cant afford everything I want at once. thanks in advance
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| Posted by blackfox: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 14:51 | 33rd Post |
| the only time i would consider using one is either for special effects i.e star ,polariser etc .or if doing seashore shots where salt spray is a problem ,other than that totally useless in digital and will 90% of the time degrade your image . i once had to bollock a mate of mine that spent £1300 on a lens and £2.50 for a filter off e/bay .if you feel you must use one GENUINE hoya pro 1 are good but carry a hefty price tag 
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| Posted by cab: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 15:24 | 34th Post |
| thanks for the quick reply will look out for a Hoya for the sea side shoots.
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| Posted by Robert: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 16:03 | 35th Post |
| Hi Cab, Welcome to the forum. As Jeff said, the only FILTER you need is probably a polariser, but I used caps for a reason, If you are considering a UV filter to protect your front element the there is no benefit using a UV filter with digital, just get a plain glass protective 'filter'. There is already a strong and very effective UV filter built int your camera body, it's directly in front of the sensor, it also filters out IR and prevents moir© from making patterns if you photograph somebody with a striped shirt. If you are considering colour tinted filters, again they are not needed with digital. In post processing using almost any software you are able to adjust the colour tints easily and revert if you don't like the effect.
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by blackfox: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 16:36 | 36th Post |
| you don't need a filter rob you just use dust to protect your lenses
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| Posted by jk: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 17:00 | 37th Post |
| I always use a filter on all my lenses. Prefer to take the hit and sharpen a little more. To each his own but I do agree there is a small degradation of image. My sharpest lenses dont have filters !
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
| Posted by Robert: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 17:08 | 38th Post |
| A few gouges on the front element adds character to the camera! ROFLMAO
____________________ Robert. |
| Posted by Eric: Wed Oct 16th, 2013 17:46 | 39th Post |
| Some years ago, I needed to take some shots of puddle splashing for a range of kids wellies. Got the D3 and a £1200 worth of new 17-35 lens in position then stamped away (boot on hand) to get the lovely splash coronets. So far so good. Then checkled the camera....few splashes that wiped off. Then the lens..... never wipe off gritty puddle water!!! Sure the lens scratches don't degrade images....but they don't half degrade the resale value!!
____________________ Eric |
| This is topic ID = 696 | ||
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