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Bob



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Does anyone in Nikondslr use NX Studio? - comments appreciated

jk



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I use it occasionally, it is great if you only use Nikon cameras and shoot RAW.

chrisbet



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Nope - don't have Windoze .....

Bob



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jk wrote:
I use it occasionally, it is great if you only use Nikon cameras and shoot RAW.
Which is why I can't alter the sharpness in my jpegs!

Eric



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Bob wrote:
Which is why I can't alter the sharpness in my jpegs!
You really shouldn’t sharpen JPEGs anyway. Because they are compressed already and have lost some detail… meaning you are working on a less than perfect file.
Many people shoot in raw because the camera hasn’t attempted to alter anything it captured.  They prefer to take control of post processing. 


In Photoshop or NX studio using their inbuilt custom raw converter optimised for Nikon raw files you get the opportunity to adjust exposure, highlights and shadows and a host of other parameters before you even properly open the file! 
You can then crop and do whatever you want to do to enhance all or part of the image…and then, only thenas the last act apply sharpening if necessary. 


You can save the master processed file as a Photoshop or tiff file that does not compress it or lose any detail. Then save a copy as a jpeg. With minimum compression.

You should never open a jpeg and modify it then resave it. 

Each time it saves, it “throws away” information it considers is expendable to achieve a new compression!!! 
Simply opening and resaving the same jpeg 3 or 4 times will result in a noticeable loss of quality.

Eric



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chrisbet wrote:
Nope - don't have Windoze .....
Don’t they do a Mac version?

jk



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Eric wrote:
Don’t they do a Mac version?
Yes, I use it on my Macs. What in Windows? :doh:

chrisbet



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I use Linux so GIMP, RAW Therapee and Darktable are my options.

chrisbet



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After Darktable tuning - 


Click here to comment on this image.

Eric



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chrisbet wrote:
After Darktable tuning - 


Click here to comment on this image.

That’s very good Chris. I don’t know what ISO Bob used but there’s a bit of noise and some jpegging artefacts but a lot better.

Bob



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Eric wrote:
That’s very good Chris. I don’t know what ISO Bob used but there’s a bit of noise and some jpegging artefacts but a lot better.
re Squirrel photos I took this when I only had one card in the camera, and I think the images were all jpeg. I looked at it in Nikon Studio, and there is nothing next to ISO sensitivity. I have since added a card, and set the camera up to save RAW images to Slot 1 and jpg to Slot 2.I can see the ISO values in photos I have taken since I added the card. Here

Click here to comment on this image.

are some more

Eric



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Bob wrote:
re Squirrel photos I took this when I only had one card in the camera, and I think the images were all jpeg. I looked at it in Nikon Studio, and there is nothing next to ISO sensitivity. I have since added a card, and set the camera up to save RAW images to Slot 1 and jpg to Slot 2.I can see the ISO values in photos I have taken since I added the card. Here

Click here to comment on this image.

are some more



Click here to comment on this image.


Just looking at this pigeon photo’s EXIF data, shows the ISO was 6400 using  1/800 @ f11.
Although the D600 takes acceptable photos at 6400, cameras of that era produced best IQ below 2000.


Looking at the files shutter speed and fstop, for a static subject like this, there is a lot of latitude in those settings to bring the ISO down to maximise quality.

For example using 1/400th at f8 would reduce the ISO to 1600.

I personally believe you would see better IQ by keeping ISO as low as possible.

Bob



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Here are two versions of the same shot one as is, and the other with the blue adjusted.


Click here to comment on this image.   Click here for EXIF data This is the original.


Click here to comment on this image.   Click here for EXIF data
This is the adjusted version.

Eric



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I confess I use an iPad a lot of the time and the screen is controlled to give IMPACT!

I agree that your image is a tad yellow, but not sure it needed that much blue adjustment.

According to my iPad this is about right…..


Click here to comment on this image.   Click here for EXIF data

Iain



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I think Eric has it about right and I'm looking at it on a calibrated Mac screen.

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