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novicius
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My wonderful D3X had so many of those , that it was as if it took pictures with built-in X-mas lighting...the D3S was not that much better. I had already hunted down a program called " pixel-fixer ",when I stumbled over some advice. Now , in RAW them pixels get fixed in developing , but not in J-peg , and I shoot both , RAW in 14 bit , j-peg in lower res. intended for media, but those coloured dots.. The " trick " is simply... 1) Put on lenscap , Close viewfinder blind. 2) Camera set to " M " 3) Select HIGHEST ISO ( I set it to H 2.0 ) 4) Select Lowest Shutterspeed 5) Fire !! It seems as if Camera switches off , wait for it...Shutter will Return , LCd `s light up , but wait !!...the Top-Lcd will flash.. " JOB-af " for a little while, then after it stops ... Keep steps 1 and 2 and 4. 3) Select LOWEST ISO ( I set it to L1.0 ) 5) Fire ... Again it will seem as if Camera switches off , wait for it...Shutter will Return , LCd `s light up , but wait !!...the Top-Lcd will flash.. " JOB-af " for a little while ... Upon Checking the Monitor, using High Magnification , You will see that Most coloured dots are gone , IF , there still are some , then they will be mute , and even under pixel peeping they `ll be hardly noticeable , as you would have to Enlarge substantially. Perhaps this was posted before , but I have not seen it . I apologise on beforehand if I have .." kicked in open doors "... |
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Robert
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I was reading about this yesterday, very interesting, thanks for posting this tip. Does it apply to all, D3, D3X and D3S? I was reading about the D3S and how it compares with the D3, when I spotted an article on 'thermal issues' (white dots) with the D810, curiosity got the better of me so I read the article below: https://nikonrumors.com/2014/08/22/how-to-tell-if-a-nikon-d810-camera-has-the-thermal-issue-fix.aspx/ It seems there is a firmware update for the D810 which isn't directly available for public download, which fixes the D810 issue. I wonder if there is a similar fix for the D3 and it's derivatives? I also wonder did the firmware number change when you did the procedure? Have you updated the firmware? My understanding is that all sensors have dead and 'hot' pixels. (A bit like all hard drives have some 'bad sectors'.) During manufacture the dead and hot pixels are mapped out so they don't appear in the image. Perhaps the procedure you describe 're-maps' those dead and hot pixels which have developed since manufacture? I have to say I haven't noticed any hot pixels in my D3 images, the amount of night photography I do I would have expected to notice some if they were present. |
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Robert
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Novicius, What software do you use for display/processing your D3/X/S images? I have just read that Adobe (ACR) NEF processing automatically maps out any hot or dead pixels as a part of the initial process for each image. Presumably even passing your images through Bridge to Lightroom will apply the ACR process and map out the dead to hot pixels. This may explain why JPEG's seem to be more of a problem. |
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jk
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Never noticed any hot pixels or dead pixels in my D3 or D3S. So I cant really comment on this but I can understand that the presence of hot pixels can be really annoying. |
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novicius
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Robert wrote:I was reading about this yesterday, very interesting, thanks for posting this tip. Robert, I read that article about the D810 , do not know what that is all about , tho`I have heard that there are ..hot / stuck / dead pixels and now Thermal issues too..What`s next , Chemical emulsions with grain instead of pixels...  Indeed , this way the camera " maps out " those dead pixels just like the factory does, the firmware I have for D3s is A 1.02...B 1.02 and D3X is A 1.01 and B 1.02 ... which is the Latest I believe .. Tho` I Doubt it has anything to do with the Firmware , as I just did the same " trick " with my Kodak DCS Pro SlrN , did that twice ( anything has to be done twice with the SlrN ). Two pink dots remained , Only noticeable under X-treme Magnification. I develop D1 / D1X /D3S / D3X in Capture NX-D ( I love that freebee ).. SlrN developed in Kodak Photodesk ( another freebee ) ,but that is all for RAW output, and those Programs will take care of Any pixels , as You and J K have noticed with PS , LR etc. So all this " mapping " was meant to Improve on J-pegs , and there it works like a charm. I did not mean to cause any confusion , so just to be clear , all is Well in RAW.  |
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novicius
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jk wrote:Never noticed any hot pixels or dead pixels in my D3 or D3S. Yes J K , indeed ,as J-pegs are supposed t` be a quick means to an otherwise long and tedious " workaround" . I know of several Photogs who rely on J-pegs to earn their bread and butter. J-pegs can be a Good thing , provided that they deliver the goods.  |
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Eric
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novicius wrote:My wonderful D3X had so many of those , that it was as if it took pictures with built-in X-mas lighting...the D3S was not that much better. That's a very interesting method ...and never heard of it before. Thanks |
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novicius
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UPDATE !! I nearly forgot to say that the steps mentioned should be done TWICE !! Due to the camera`s having TWO directories , so just repeat the sequence again . |
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Eric
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novicius wrote:UPDATE !! Is there any advantage in doing the process all over again and again several times? Does it reach best condition after the two cycles? Just wondered if, like swabbing a sensor, it can take multiple goes at swabbing to get it perfect? Or if you do it too many times... do the dead pixels rise again?  |
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novicius
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It`s probably a Yin and Yang thing , spiced with a little voodoo.. |
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Richard
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novicius wrote:My wonderful D3X had so many of those , that it was as if it took pictures with built-in X-mas lighting...the D3S was not that much better. Hello, Nikon D3X and D3S user here. I tried with my D3X (Firmware version 1.02.) all four steps, but can't seem to reproduce it. I had my 50mm f1.8G lens on, shutter speed set to 30sec. I use Long Exposure Noise reduction that gives " Job nr " message on top LCD meaning that camera is actually still taking another shot compensating for the noise and is not ready, but " Job af " never came up. Tried with Long exp.NR OFF but nothing... Is there any specific aperture setting or should this be done without lens altogether? Appreciate your help Richard |
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jk
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I am wondering if the Job af and Job nr are language variants shown by camera in English or German language! |
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novicius
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Hello Richard, As the Lenscap is on , the aperture selected may not matter ( but try with smallest aperture ) I do not know what your quality criteria are , but I did mention that NOT al those hot pixels are gone , however ,those remaining would not be so obtrusive. It has been a long time since I did it last, but since You performed all steps ... did you remember to close down the eye-shutter ( viewfinder blind ) ? However , when You need Top-Results , I suggest to get : https://www.pixelfixer.org/ It is free - ware , and works better than that little trick, tho` it requires a bit of effort. Good luck , and let us know how you get on. |
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novicius
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novicius wrote:Hello Richard, You DID Remember to REPEAT those 4 steps ?... Thare are TWO directories, therefore you have to do it TWICE !! |
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Richard
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jk wrote:I am wondering if the Job af and Job nr are language variants shown by camera in English or German language! I just tried setting the D3X into German but funny enough the " Job nr" is still there :))) novicius wrote: Hello Richard, Thank you for the clarification! My D3X is showing some visible hot pixels on ISO above 400 so I'm trying to avoid shooting at higher values, but since I shoot only in 14bit RAW it can be edited out in Capture One Pro...I just sometimes forget  I'll try it again and then repost the result |
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