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novicius
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Yes,....there I was , feeling miserable, toying with the D3X and 14 - 24 mounted, zooming...auto - focusing....it went..tzzz...tzzzz....tzzz..tshluck...I looked at the monitor in bewilderment...loaded up to capture NX-D....went outside..checked infinity..played with auto-focus adjustments in D3S..D3X.....set at the minus -5 setting , and sharpness is only rivalled by my PC-Nikkors..( PC-E 24 f3.5...PC 28 f 3.5...PC 35 f2.8 ) anyone who knows those lenses understands what a tall order it would be to rival those in terms of anything.. ..and even the Zoom ring is moving a bit better now.. I had already started to put aside the first of many pennies to aquire an IRIX Blackstone 15 f2.4...only to read several blogs where they " dish " the thing completely ( QC issues ? )..glad I do not need to step over to that camp anymore.. To say that I am a Happy Camper would be an Understatement , and my faith in Nikkors has been Restored..What a FANTASTIC Optic this is !! Thank You All for lending me a willing ear, it feels good to know that one does Not stand alone in the Dreary world of Dysfunctional optics. Vic. |
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Robert
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Well that's wonderful news Novicus! So pleased it's seen sense. Perhaps all the mounting and un-mounting had dislodged the gremlin? |
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Eric
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Great news! Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely? |
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jk
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Great news. Can you identify what you think was the problem before? |
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novicius
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Eric wrote:Great news! The D2Xs is still on the test bench sans Main / Clock batteries , mirror still in the "Up" position....I`ll give it a few more days, if it it`s still stubborn then I will negotiate with ACS. |
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novicius
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jk wrote:Great news. Not completely sure , but it sounded as if something was dislodged/jammed , the repeated " forcing" of the camera / built in motor may have clicked it back in place.. It had arrived in a cardboard box , packed in crumpled newspaper around and on top...but Not in the Bottom !! The Lens was with LensCap resting on bottom of cardboard box..I assume that having been subjected to Hard-Handed handling it received a jolt too many. So , seen in that light ( no pun intended ) the Build Quality of Nikkor`s is still Legendary,..!! Thankfully  |
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Robert
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My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in. Lens still worked but started to jam the focus. If shaken in a certain way it would stop jamming the focus. I guessed a screw had sheared when it was dropped. I made a hole in the front plastic, shook the lens about and hey presto! a broken screw dropped out. Jamming stoped. Does your lens rattle? I have now made a new front for the Nikkor, with integral lens shade, bit like the 16mm fisheye. |
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Robert
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novicius wrote:Eric wrote: This seems VERY odd, when cleaning sensor getting the mirror to stay up is obviously vital, but if power is removed, shutter will close and mirror will fall. SO, WHY is the mirror staying up, WITHOUT power??? It can't (normally) do that.  Have you tried selecting fast-continuous shutter or all the other options like single, mirror up and whatever other modes the D2Xs has. The mechanism appears to function, just the wrong way... Open when it should be closed. |
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jk
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Robert wrote:My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in. You engineer you. That is a £300 repair at Nikon! |
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Robert
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 I have a large chunk of magnesium aluminium, I carved it out of that.  Cutouts to prevent vignetting, the RAC plastic thingy was my profile for the cutouts, to keep them similar, because it's flexible I could bend it both ways so I had left and right cutouts from one profile. The black marks were for where it needed more reliving.  The new front with home made lens cap and the lens cap from my 16mm Fisheye.  D3 with lens cap.  And without.  A lot of fun! Most expensive thing was having the vinyl logo cut, cost me a tenner for a bit of plastic, although he did cut two for me so I have a spare. I think if there is a next time I will get the letters cut out and spray over black, then remove the letters, like stencil. The vinyl has a tendency to peel at acute corners like the 'N'. It's standing up well to use so I'm happy, at least I have a lens hood now. |
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jk
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Now you have the vinyl in place you could acid etch the Nikon out/in. Eithe just put acid into the Nikon word or fill it with wax and then acid etch the surrounding space after removing the vinyl. For me I would just etch the Nikon word area. |
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Robert
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What finish would the acid create and what acid to use? I do remember many years ago putting an aluminium motorcycle exhaust in caustic soda and it turned black! The owner wasn't best pleased... it took me ages to polish it back to silver colour. |
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jk
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Hydrochloric (HCl) but Sulphuric (H2SO4) battery acid would probably also work. Finish would be matt possibly with some pitting. You would need to experiment with acid strength as lower concentration gives you better control and takes longer. |
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novicius
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Robert wrote:My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in. Robert , I am Afraid,Very Afraid that You`ve put yer finger on the Sore Spot.... When I shake the lens,there`s a " clacking " sound coming from it....that does Not abode well...funny thing is,when shaking while zooming simultanously, that zoom ring moves much easier...`tho as it is difficult to see,it seems as if the rear lens-assembly is slightly out of center.. Tho` I have an electro-mechano background,I do not have the required skill/knowledge to bargain with it.. This U-tube vid shows the innards of the 14-24... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9I-BlD5m0&t=3s Slowed down to 0.25 motion, shows what a Complicated Affair it is.. Maybe I`ll work up the courage...but I dunno.. What a Fantastic job You did with that 20 f2.8 ...  |
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novicius
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Robert wrote:novicius wrote: Yes,Exactly my thoughts ,..I have tried the things You mentioned and will try again, but it seems to be a SoftWare issue... According to Nikon ,there are NO upgrades for the D2xS...only for D2X...but I doubt if that can be used. |
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Robert
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novicius wrote:
Thank you, I really enjoyed fixing up the 20mm. I was able to put my own stamp on it. As for your lens, it sounds like it's been dropped, possibly the camera took the impact but perhaps survived, maybe a D3? The lens was less fortunate. I would still contact ACS and ask David his view, they do (did) have lenses which they cannibalise so may be able to do a repair without costing too much, it may only be a sheared screw? In which case it could be a relatively simple repair. |
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novicius
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Yes, it could very well be.... As per the D2xS ,...I was wondering,since there`s No software upgrade for it, could it be that the upgrade for the X is perhaps Usable as a re-install for the S ??.. Looking at the difference between the X ( firmware )upgrade and the S firmware would be the better LCD and Screen/Viewfinder which is Hardware , I have been trying to find info about this but to No avail... Perhaps it is time to get in touch with ACS |
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Robert
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The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing. I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable. |
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novicius
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Robert wrote:The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing. I`M Afraid that You`re Correct.... Funny thing about the 14-24....it seems to be at its " Sharpest " there where it Jams at 16mm focal length setting...curious that.. Anyone notice that with a Zoom...Any Zoom..??.. |
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Robert
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novicius wrote:Robert wrote: To me that would suggest a moving part is being pushed into it's correct position in a support slide at the tight point but the support is broken or displaced elsewhere along it's length, therefore not correctly aligned. Does it rattle when the tight point is reached? If not that might confirm my theory. I might be inclined to leave it in the tight point, especially if you intend to post it... Some lenses are incredibly frail in their construction, using all sorts of ways to squeeze the complex mechanism into a tiny space. The 25-50 I had was very sharp but suffered a drop while on my D1, the D1 was fine of course! I opened up the lens and the innards slid on three small rods which were held in position with sticky tape. The impact from being dropped, had torn two of the rods from their flimsy supports. That exhibited the same 'slack' and 'tight' feel when zooming and focusing. I liked that lens, it was small and very sharp, with good contrast but although it did improve it's behaviour, I got rid during one of my equipment culls. |
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novicius
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RobertTo me that would suggest a moving part is being pushed into it's correct position in a support slide at the tight point but the support is broken or displaced elsewhere along it's length, therefore not correctly aligned. Robert,... Once Again your Assesment is Correct..Sir.. ..`tho there`s a bit of rattle , it`s way way less at 16mm... I am awaiting the arrival of some small tools ,and having " studied " that yooutoob vid.,..making me an expert of sorts,..I want to open up the rear ring to have a look see,..using adhesive tape in such a Fine Optic ??!... Well, Nikon is No Taylor-Hobson.. ...incidently, have you seen the prices of COOKE Lenses lately...Would n`t mind `tho`..." dream ".. |
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Robert
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Well I wish you luck, just be careful with those ribbon cables... Off to look up Cooke lenses! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooke_Optics |
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novicius
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A small Victory... The Rear Lens Group was Exenter...a bit more then I noticed at First glance,..showed in that one side of the photo had a different focus point, so , I turned the zoom ring to 14mm causing the rear lens group to come out as much as possible and inserted a piece of plastic around one mm thick where the lens was leaning outwards and then turned the zoom ring to 24 mm ,it pulled the plastic with which then pushed the lens opposite way and after several tries the Rear Lens Group is Centered again, tests show the Lens is near perfect,I can n`t do it better then this,the jamming at 16mm is still there ,altho` it is less now,so there`s still something ,but at least now I`ve got a 14-24 that can be used. |
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Robert
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Well done, Sounds like the rear slide is broken or cracked? |
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jk
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I would suggest that the 14-24 would like a visit to a Nikon Service Centre. It will come back perfect.  |
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jk
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This is a sample from my Z7 with 14-24 fitted using the FTZ adapter. BTW: The shadowlike dark area in the foreground is NOT my shadow but moss/lichen. Attachment: Z7-1-1217-web.jpg (Downloaded 10 times) |
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novicius
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Robert wrote:Well done, Sounds like the rear slide is broken or cracked? Looking at a Cut-Thru` it`s most Likely that You are Right.. |
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novicius
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jk wrote:I would suggest that the 14-24 would like a visit to a Nikon Service Centre. It will come back perfect. Absolutely !! ..But the cost involved can be Huge....see what this gent has to say about that.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVnzAQA2B4w So I`ll see what the immediate future brings.. Your photo shows what a Fantastic Lens it is.. |
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| A small amount of member data is captured and held in an attempt to reduce spammers and to manage users. This site also uses cookies to ensure ease of use. In order to comply with new DPR regulations you are required to agree/disagree with this process. If you do not agree then please email the Admins using info@nikondsl.uk Thank you. |