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Nikkor 14 - 24 f2.8 AF - S........SUCCES !!!  Rate Topic 
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Posted by novicius: Thu Jan 3rd, 2019 18:43 1st Post
Yes,....there I was , feeling miserable, toying with the D3X and 14 - 24 mounted, zooming...auto - focusing....it went..tzzz...tzzzz....tzzz..tshluck...I looked at the monitor in bewilderment...loaded up to capture NX-D....went outside..checked infinity..played with auto-focus adjustments in D3S..D3X.....set at the minus -5 setting , and sharpness is only rivalled by my PC-Nikkors..( PC-E 24 f3.5...PC 28 f 3.5...PC 35 f2.8 ) anyone who knows those lenses understands what a tall order it would be to rival those in terms of anything..

..and even the Zoom ring is moving a bit better now..

I had already started to put aside the first of many pennies to aquire an IRIX Blackstone 15 f2.4...only to read several blogs where they " dish " the thing completely ( QC issues ? )..glad I do not need to step over to that camp anymore..

To say that I am a Happy Camper would be an Understatement , and my faith in Nikkors has been Restored..What a FANTASTIC Optic this is !!

Thank You All for lending me a willing ear, it feels good to know that one does Not stand alone in the Dreary world of Dysfunctional optics.

Vic.



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Posted by Robert: Thu Jan 3rd, 2019 19:02 2nd Post
Well that's wonderful news Novicus!

So pleased it's seen sense.

Perhaps all the mounting and un-mounting had dislodged the gremlin?



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Robert.



Posted by Eric: Thu Jan 3rd, 2019 19:13 3rd Post
Great news!
Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely?



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Eric


Posted by jk: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 05:05 4th Post
Great news.
Can you identify what you think was the problem before?



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Posted by novicius: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 10:58 5th Post
Eric wrote:
Great news!
Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely?

The D2Xs is still on the test bench sans Main / Clock batteries , mirror still in the "Up" position....I`ll give it a few more days, if it it`s still stubborn then I will negotiate with ACS.



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Posted by novicius: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 11:07 6th Post
jk wrote:
Great news.
Can you identify what you think was the problem before?

Not completely sure , but it sounded as if something was dislodged/jammed , the repeated " forcing" of the camera / built in motor may have clicked it back in place..

It had arrived in a cardboard box , packed in crumpled newspaper around and on top...but Not in the Bottom !!

The Lens was with LensCap resting on bottom of cardboard box..I assume that having been subjected to Hard-Handed handling it received a jolt too many.

So , seen in that light ( no pun intended ) the Build Quality of Nikkor`s is still Legendary,..!!

Thankfully :-)



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Posted by Robert: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 11:38 7th Post
My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in.

Lens still worked but started to jam the focus. If shaken in a certain way it would stop jamming the focus. I guessed a screw had sheared when it was dropped. I made a hole in the front plastic, shook the lens about and hey presto! a broken screw dropped out. Jamming stoped.

Does your lens rattle?

I have now made a new front for the Nikkor, with integral lens shade, bit like the 16mm fisheye.



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Robert.



Posted by Robert: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 11:44 8th Post
novicius wrote:
Eric wrote:
Great news!
Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely?

The D2Xs is still on the test bench sans Main / Clock batteries , mirror still in the "Up" position....I`ll give it a few more days, if it it`s still stubborn then I will negotiate with ACS.

This seems VERY odd, when cleaning sensor getting the mirror to stay up is obviously vital, but if power is removed, shutter will close and mirror will fall. SO, WHY is the mirror staying up, WITHOUT power???

It can't (normally) do that. o.O

Have you tried selecting fast-continuous shutter or all the other options like single, mirror up and whatever other modes the D2Xs has.

The mechanism appears to function, just the wrong way... Open when it should be closed.



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Robert.



Posted by jk: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 12:54 9th Post
Robert wrote:
My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in.

Lens still worked but started to jam the focus. If shaken in a certain way it would stop jamming the focus. I guessed a screw had sheared when it was dropped. I made a hole in the front plastic, shook the lens about and hey presto! a broken screw dropped out. Jamming stoped.

Does your lens rattle?

I have now made a new front for the Nikkor, with integral lens shade, bit like the 16mm fisheye.

You engineer you.
That is a £300 repair at Nikon!



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Posted by Robert: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 13:47 10th Post
:lol:

I have a large chunk of magnesium aluminium, I carved it out of that.



Cutouts to prevent vignetting, the RAC plastic thingy was my profile for the cutouts, to keep them similar, because it's flexible I could bend it both ways so I had left and right cutouts from one profile. The black marks were for where it needed more reliving.



The new front with home made lens cap and the lens cap from my 16mm Fisheye.



D3 with lens cap.



And without.



A lot of fun! Most expensive thing was having the vinyl logo cut, cost me a tenner for a bit of plastic, although he did cut two for me so I have a spare. I think if there is a next time I will get the letters cut out and spray over black, then remove the letters, like stencil. The vinyl has a tendency to peel at acute corners like the 'N'. It's standing up well to use so I'm happy, at least I have a lens hood now.



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Robert.



Posted by jk: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 14:31 11th Post
Now you have the vinyl in place you could acid etch the Nikon out/in. Eithe just put acid into the Nikon word or fill it with wax and then acid etch the surrounding space after removing the vinyl.

For me I would just etch the Nikon word area.



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Posted by Robert: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 15:01 12th Post
What finish would the acid create and what acid to use?

I do remember many years ago putting an aluminium motorcycle exhaust in caustic soda and it turned black! The owner wasn't best pleased... it took me ages to polish it back to silver colour.



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Robert.



Posted by jk: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 15:10 13th Post
Hydrochloric (HCl) but Sulphuric (H2SO4) battery acid would probably also work.
Finish would be matt possibly with some pitting.

You would need to experiment with acid strength as lower concentration gives you better control and takes longer.



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Posted by novicius: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 23:56 14th Post
Robert wrote:
My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in.

Lens still worked but started to jam the focus. If shaken in a certain way it would stop jamming the focus. I guessed a screw had sheared when it was dropped. I made a hole in the front plastic, shook the lens about and hey presto! a broken screw dropped out. Jamming stoped.

Does your lens rattle?

I have now made a new front for the Nikkor, with integral lens shade, bit like the 16mm fisheye.

Robert , I am Afraid,Very Afraid that You`ve put yer finger on the Sore Spot....

When I shake the lens,there`s a " clacking " sound coming from it....that does Not abode well...funny thing is,when shaking while zooming simultanously, that zoom ring moves much easier...`tho as it is difficult to see,it seems as if the rear lens-assembly is slightly out of center..

Tho` I have an electro-mechano background,I do not have the required skill/knowledge to bargain with it..

This U-tube vid shows the innards of the 14-24...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9I-BlD5m0&t=3s

Slowed down to 0.25 motion, shows what a Complicated Affair it is..

Maybe I`ll work up the courage...but I dunno..

What a Fantastic job You did with that 20 f2.8 ...:applause:



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Posted by novicius: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 00:04 15th Post
Robert wrote:
novicius wrote:
Eric wrote:
Great news!
Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely?

The D2Xs is still on the test bench sans Main / Clock batteries , mirror still in the "Up" position....I`ll give it a few more days, if it it`s still stubborn then I will negotiate with ACS.

This seems VERY odd, when cleaning sensor getting the mirror to stay up is obviously vital, but if power is removed, shutter will close and mirror will fall. SO, WHY is the mirror staying up, WITHOUT power???

It can't (normally) do that. o.O

Have you tried selecting fast-continuous shutter or all the other options like single, mirror up and whatever other modes the D2Xs has.

The mechanism appears to function, just the wrong way... Open when it should be closed.

Yes,Exactly my thoughts ,..I have tried the things You mentioned and will try again, but it seems to be a SoftWare issue...

According to Nikon ,there are NO upgrades for the D2xS...only for D2X...but I doubt if that can be used.



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Posted by Robert: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 04:06 16th Post
novicius wrote:


Robert , I am Afraid,Very Afraid that You`ve put yer finger on the Sore Spot....

When I shake the lens,there`s a " clacking " sound coming from it....that does Not abode well...funny thing is,when shaking while zooming simultanously, that zoom ring moves much easier...`tho as it is difficult to see,it seems as if the rear lens-assembly is slightly out of center..

Thank you, I really enjoyed fixing up the 20mm. I was able to put my own stamp on it.

As for your lens, it sounds like it's been dropped, possibly the camera took the impact but perhaps survived, maybe a D3? The lens was less fortunate.

I would still contact ACS and ask David his view, they do (did) have lenses which they cannibalise so may be able to do a repair without costing too much, it may only be a sheared screw? In which case it could be a relatively simple repair.



____________________
Robert.



Posted by novicius: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 06:08 17th Post
Yes, it could very well be....

As per the D2xS ,...I was wondering,since there`s No software upgrade for it, could it be that the upgrade for the X is perhaps Usable as a re-install for the S ??..

Looking at the difference between the X ( firmware )upgrade and the S firmware would be the better LCD and Screen/Viewfinder which is Hardware , I have been trying to find info about this but to No avail...

Perhaps it is time to get in touch with ACS :-)



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Posted by Robert: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 08:47 18th Post
The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.



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Robert.



Posted by novicius: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 23:42 19th Post
Robert wrote:
The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.

I`M Afraid that You`re Correct....

Funny thing about the 14-24....it seems to be at its " Sharpest " there where it Jams at 16mm focal length setting...curious that..

Anyone notice that with a Zoom...Any Zoom..??..



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Posted by Robert: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 04:22 20th Post
novicius wrote:
Robert wrote:
The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.

I`M Afraid that You`re Correct....

Funny thing about the 14-24....it seems to be at its " Sharpest " there where it Jams at 16mm focal length setting...curious that..

Anyone notice that with a Zoom...Any Zoom..??..

To me that would suggest a moving part is being pushed into it's correct position in a support slide at the tight point but the support is broken or displaced elsewhere along it's length, therefore not correctly aligned.

Does it rattle when the tight point is reached? If not that might confirm my theory. I might be inclined to leave it in the tight point, especially if you intend to post it...

Some lenses are incredibly frail in their construction, using all sorts of ways to squeeze the complex mechanism into a tiny space. The 25-50 I had was very sharp but suffered a drop while on my D1, the D1 was fine of course!

I opened up the lens and the innards slid on three small rods which were held in position with sticky tape. The impact from being dropped, had torn two of the rods from their flimsy supports. That exhibited the same 'slack' and 'tight' feel when zooming and focusing. I liked that lens, it was small and very sharp, with good contrast but although it did improve it's behaviour, I got rid during one of my equipment culls.



____________________
Robert.



Posted by novicius: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 14:55 21st Post
Robert

To me that would suggest a moving part is being pushed into it's correct position in a support slide at the tight point but the support is broken or displaced elsewhere along it's length, therefore not correctly aligned.

Does it rattle when the tight point is reached? If not that might confirm my theory. I might be inclined to leave it in the tight point, especially if you intend to post it...

Some lenses are incredibly frail in their construction, using all sorts of ways to squeeze the complex mechanism into a tiny space. The 25-50 I had was very sharp but suffered a drop while on my D1, the D1 was fine of course!

I opened up the lens and the innards slid on three small rods which were held in position with sticky tape. The impact from being dropped, had torn two of the rods from their flimsy supports. That exhibited the same 'slack' and 'tight' feel when zooming and focusing. I liked that lens, it was small and very sharp, with good contrast but although it did improve it's behaviour, I got rid during one of my equipment culls.

Robert,...

Once Again your Assesment is Correct..Sir..
..`tho there`s a bit of rattle , it`s way way less at 16mm...

I am awaiting the arrival of some small tools ,and having " studied " that yooutoob vid.,..making me an expert of sorts,..I want to open up the rear ring to have a look see,..using adhesive tape in such a Fine Optic ??!...

Well, Nikon is No Taylor-Hobson..:-)...incidently, have you seen the prices of COOKE Lenses lately...

Would n`t mind `tho`..." dream "..:applause:



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Posted by Robert: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 15:03 22nd Post
Well I wish you luck, just be careful with those ribbon cables...

Off to look up Cooke lenses!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooke_Optics



____________________
Robert.



Posted by novicius: Tue Jan 8th, 2019 19:18 23rd Post
A small Victory...

The Rear Lens Group was Exenter...a bit more then I noticed at First glance,..showed in that one side of the photo had a different focus point, so , I turned the zoom ring to 14mm causing the rear lens group to come out as much as possible and inserted a piece of plastic around one mm thick where the lens was leaning outwards and then turned the zoom ring to 24 mm ,it pulled the plastic with which then pushed the lens opposite way and after several tries the Rear Lens Group is Centered again, tests show the Lens is near perfect,I can n`t do it better then this,the jamming at 16mm is still there ,altho` it is less now,so there`s still something ,but at least now I`ve got a 14-24 that can be used.



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Posted by Robert: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 00:51 24th Post
Well done, Sounds like the rear slide is broken or cracked?



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Robert.



Posted by jk: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 04:19 25th Post
I would suggest that the 14-24 would like a visit to a Nikon Service Centre. It will come back perfect. ;-)



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Posted by jk: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 07:20 26th Post
This is a sample from my Z7 with 14-24 fitted using the FTZ adapter.

BTW: The shadowlike dark area in the foreground is NOT my shadow but moss/lichen.

Attachment: Z7-1-1217-web.jpg (Downloaded 10 times)



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Posted by novicius: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 13:50 27th Post
Robert wrote:
Well done, Sounds like the rear slide is broken or cracked?
Looking at a Cut-Thru` it`s most Likely that You are Right..



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Posted by novicius: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 13:53 28th Post
jk wrote:
I would suggest that the 14-24 would like a visit to a Nikon Service Centre. It will come back perfect. ;-)
Absolutely !!

..But the cost involved can be Huge....see what this gent has to say about that..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVnzAQA2B4w

So I`ll see what the immediate future brings..

Your photo shows what a Fantastic Lens it is..:applause:



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