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Variable ND filter  Rate Topic 
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Posted by jk: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 09:44 1st Post
I want a variable ND as it is more convenient than carrying a set of ND filters.

Looking at this variable ND (x3-400) from Hoya.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hoya-77mm-77-mm-Variable-Density-NDx3-400-ND3-ND400-Neutral-Camera-Lens-Filter/252087175121?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649



Does anyone have experience of variable ND filters?  
My previous experience is that they cause colour casts but there are a number of different makes now.
Any suggested makes?



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Posted by Robert: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 11:50 2nd Post
Not answering your question but I believe they are a pair of Polarising filters in variable opposition, that might explain the colour variation?



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Posted by jk: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 15:37 3rd Post
Yes I have an older variable ND but it is in Spain but also causes colour casts which are very difficult to remove.
I am hoping these new Hoya ND filters may be different but I dont want to blow £100+ on a filter that makes colour casts.  I can buy a set of Lee 150x170 filters which cost £250 but they come as a set 0.3, 0.6, 0.9 (1,2,3 stops).

The x3-400 effectively gives me variable 1 to 6 stops.



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Posted by Robert: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 15:54 4th Post
Simples, take a leaf out of Eric's book and buy it from somewhere like Wex, on-line, if it fails to make you smile then send it back.



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Posted by jk: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 16:13 5th Post
I find that process works well if you live close to the store and can take it back but it irks me to have to post it back.  Not entirely logical I concede but.....



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Posted by Robert: Sat Mar 30th, 2019 18:39 6th Post
But the point is the distance selling rules mean you have a right to send it back, without stating a reason.  If you go to the shop to buy it, it's up to their goodwill if they are prepared to have an even slightly used item back in stock.



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Posted by jk: Sun Mar 31st, 2019 15:51 7th Post
Decided that the Nikon 14-24 f2.8 needs the flat ND so that is the way to go as I have the filter holder for it.


However the Nikon 14-30 f4 Z series lens will take 82mm screw in filters but I dont have that!  So decision made.   I will continue with my 14-24 f2.8 on my Z7 using the FTZ adapter and on my D850.  Seems so much easier and lesser cost!



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Posted by novicius: Sat Jun 22nd, 2019 21:51 8th Post
I Fail to Understand why the use of ND filters,..here in Europe light level is rather low, f.ex. , in summer ,100 iso at 100sec. between 2 - 4 midday usually requires f11...equally ,6400 iso at f1.4 , a difference of six f stops could be used ,which is easily overcome by today´s camera`s..and anything in between, enabling the photog to play with DOF,..and as mentioned , they`re supposedly polarizers, so why then not resorting to those, since you seem to have them already anyway..?..



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Posted by Robert: Sun Jun 23rd, 2019 01:47 9th Post
novicius wrote:
I Fail to Understand why the use of ND filters,..here in Europe light level is rather low, f.ex. , in summer ,100 iso at 100sec. between 2 - 4 midday usually requires f11...equally ,6400 iso at f1.4 , a difference of six f stops could be used ,which is easily overcome by today´s camera`s..and anything in between, enabling the photog to play with DOF,..and as mentioned , they`re supposedly polarizers, so why then not resorting to those, since you seem to have them already anyway..?.. Waterfalls etc. is the only reason I can think of.

I was dismayed when I discovered my D1 minimum ISO was 200, I had travelled some distance to make my first digital photographs of some brightly lit waterfalls in Yorkshire, but faced over exposure or frozen water droplets.



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Posted by chrisbet: Sun Jun 23rd, 2019 03:14 10th Post
What about just mounting 2 polarizing filters?



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Posted by Eric: Sun Jun 23rd, 2019 05:31 11th Post
chrisbet wrote:
What about just mounting 2 polarizing filters? Or go later in the evening when light levels have dropped.



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Posted by jk: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 15:21 12th Post
novicius wrote:
I Fail to Understand why the use of ND filters,..here in Europe light level is rather low, f.ex. , in summer ,100 iso at 100sec. between 2 - 4 midday usually requires f11...equally ,6400 iso at f1.4 , a difference of six f stops could be used ,which is easily overcome by today´s camera`s..and anything in between, enabling the photog to play with DOF,..and as mentioned , they`re supposedly polarizers, so why then not resorting to those, since you seem to have them already anyway..?.. It is not DOF that is desired to be controlled but shutter speed.  If you want the sea or water to blur then you need 1/4 or 1/8 second at ISO 100/200 at normal f8 aperture for best sharpness from lens.  You need to use ND to get these shutter speeds.  I find I need ND of 4 stops.  This would mean changing to ISO6/12 (not possible on current cameras).

Many variable NDs are two polarisers working in opposition but these give colour casts (brown/green) also polarisers ate not good when used on wide angle lenses.   Many landscape photographers use flat ND filters but these are expensive for a superwide angle 14mm as you need a 150x150 or 150x175mm.

Going later in the day may be impractical or the light angle changes so the photo does not work.



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Posted by Eric: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 16:56 13th Post
jk wrote:


Going later in the day may be impractical or the light angle changes so the photo does not work.


Thats true.
I was really thinking specifically about waterfalls. Many people make the mistake of photographing them in full sun when the contrast range is to high to retain detail in the water. Even when it's meant to be blurred it shouldn't be burnt out or even spectacular white. 😉



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Posted by jk: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 17:08 14th Post
Yep,
I know the problem.
I managed to just about get it right here but it is not perfect.



Shooting upwards also means that even with HDR the dynamic range is huge.
This is not HDR and I didnt have a tripod with me that day.



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Posted by jk: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 17:13 15th Post
This is a fail.
I need to repeat this image as I was there at midday on a sunny day.
I will return on a cloudy day in September.

This is HDR and still it is not right.



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Posted by novicius: Mon Jun 24th, 2019 18:40 16th Post
I like that second one , as I appreciate when some movement is shown, and looking forward to you returning there to " do it over " just to see what you have in mind...is this in Cornwall ?



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Posted by jk: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 03:39 17th Post
novicius wrote:
I like that second one , as I appreciate when some movement is shown, and looking forward to you returning there to " do it over " just to see what you have in mind...is this in Cornwall ? Yes it is on Devon/Cornwall border. 
It is Speke's Mill Waterfall at Hartland.



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Posted by Eric: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 05:44 18th Post
I suppose this is where tastes differ. 
I too prefer the second image. 
I would have just masked the area in shade, adjusted the white balance to get rid of the deep shade blue cast and lightened the mid tones like this....




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Posted by Eric: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 06:08 19th Post
The first shot, to me, exhibits the sort of white out that I don't like to see. It loses definition by virtue of over exposure rather than movement.

Areas I've greyed out.






Incidentally....you've left a black masking outline around the sunlit rocks. 😉



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